The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[d.kaufman]

Fun day. Cam and valve springs and head bolts showed up. Found out I ordered the wrong valve springs because #### Google (linked me to the wrong part on Jegs' site, I didn't double check the number). Setup the return and bought the RIGHT part from Lunati.

And here's where the REAL fun begins. We started to pull the engine on the Mountaineer. The upper radiator hose and inlet to the heater core were both empty.
The lower radiator hose and outlet from the heater core - frozen solid.

How boned am I? What do I do from here? Obviously still gonna pull it. How do I check the block to make sure it isn't cracked?

Usually will push a freeze plug out before cracking the block...Usually

 

[jeffsqartan]

Usually will push a freeze plug out before cracking the block...Usually

That's what my buddy said, but I've heard more often than not they just crack. Maybe it will stay cold enough in the garage to keep everything frozen so I can see any cracks with ice keeping pressure on them.

 

[d.kaufman]

That's what my buddy said, but I've heard more often than not they just crack. Maybe it will stay cold enough in the garage to keep everything frozen so I can see any cracks with ice keeping pressure on them.

If it's still possible, reconnect the hoses, full her up with water and throw a pressure tester on it

 

[Jaybird1980]

If it's still possible, reconnect the hoses, full her up with water and throw a pressure tester on it

It already has a pretty significant leak anyways. Won't hold much pressure the way it was originally.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I would just pull it and check the freeze plugs. If they are good, I would make some plates to cover the water jackets after you strip the front of the engine. Then try to put a pressure or vacuum tester on it, doesn't have to be much pressure, whatever the cap is probably 18lbs.

 

[Jaybird1980]

With the system not being full, it lessens the chance of it cracking because it gives the water room to expand some.

 

[d.kaufman]

It already has a pretty significant leak anyways. Won't hold much pressure the way it was originally.

Gotcha. That sucks. Hopefully a good visual inspection when the engine is out should do.

The couple blocks I've ever seen cracked due to freezing water were very visible. They weren't hairline cracks but a good 2"×2" section pushed out

 

[churchmouse]

Ummm, I don't think Vic Edelbrock has it. Pretty sure Vic died like 3 or 4 years ago

I bet Cammy has it

 

[churchmouse]

This is why I love the vert so much (and hopefully the notch, too).
One of the regulars at Grissom drives a wicked newer Camaro. Got him to ride with me once or twice one weekend. Ended up pushing it a little too hard one run and this sweet photo was born.

Anyway, my times were only a little faster than his, if that. He said that just the raw feel of the car is insane compared to his.
And that's why I love these older clunkers. They can go just as fast and they feel so much better.

View attachment 176797

Man I love that.

 

[jeffsqartan]

With the system not being full, it lessens the chance of it cracking because it gives the water room to expand some.

I was thinking about doing the same thing with blocking stuff off once it's out and testing then. I've already got some stuff to pressure test turbo piping, so should be easy to adapt for this.

See, with it not being full, I wasn't sure if that would be a good thing or a bad thing. Guess I'll find out lol

 

[d.kaufman]

See, with it not being full, I wasn't sure if that would be a good thing or a bad thing. Guess I'll find out lol

Definitely good It was low and had leaks. That should've allowed for the expansion of the freezing water without damaging anything. The freezing water will take the path of least resistance

 

[Jaybird1980]

I was thinking about doing the same thing with blocking stuff off once it's out and testing then. I've already got some stuff to pressure test turbo piping, so should be easy to adapt for this.

See, with it not being full, I wasn't sure if that would be a good thing or a bad thing. Guess I'll find out lol

I'm not sure if they have a drain plug on the block itself, like the sbc does. If it does then that would be an easy place to rig up a pressure tester.

 

[thunderchicken]

With the system not being full, it lessens the chance of it cracking because it gives the water room to expand some.

I'm not trying to be a jerk when I say this but, BS! As soon as I get a chance and can remember how to post a picture I will.
True story... So we are only allowed to run water in our race engine, no antifreeze. We drain the radiator and block as best we can every year before the first freeze because unless we plan to be in the garage the heat is off. Block plug on drivers side won't come out. Drained RH side and blow compressed air through the system to push as much out as possible and left the radiator hoses off. Spring rolls around we get it all ready to fire up and as soon as it started to build heat ....drip...drip..drip. Shut it off and get to looking and the LH side of the block was cracked about an inch above the oil pan rain and was probably a good 6 inches long. Probably don't need to say it but this was on a rather pricey aftermarket block too.
So, just a little bit of water left in the block can very easily cause it to crack once it freezes.

If you have a crack like this happen, MOROSO sells a product (actually 2 types) called Cerama seal (may have different spelling) that works but make sure to follow the directions 100%. One type is for system s that only have water in them and one is for systems with antifreeze.
If you are only going to run water in an engine either keep the air temp above freezing or at least buy a couple heat lamps to keep things just warm enough not to be an issue

 

[femurphy77]

Good luck on the ice. I bought a 390 core to build one year that turned into scrap AFTER they had completely machined the block and were installing the crank. Rolled it over on the stand and there was a 6" crack on one side. It was very obvious and still leaching chemicals from the vat when he showed it to me. They actually wanted me to pay for the machine work, prep and cam bearings in spite of the fact that Ray Charles would have seen this crack.

 

[churchmouse]

Good luck on the ice. I bought a 390 core to build one year that turned into scrap AFTER they had completely machined the block and were installing the crank. Rolled it over on the stand and there was a 6" crack on one side. It was very obvious and still leaching chemicals from the vat when he showed it to me. They actually wanted me to pay for the machine work, prep and cam bearings in spite of the fact that Ray Charles would have seen this crack.

It never fails to amaze me. I will pay an agreed upon price for a given amount of work aNd never balk at pulling out the cash.
But in your situation oh hell no. If they missed that what other items have the glossed over.

 

[thunderchicken]

hopefully this picture attached.
If you look just above the flange on the aluminum pan you can see the crack (s) it extends from the right hand side of the blue AN fitting on the master cylinder left and is about as long as the master cylinder.

That happened over the winter between 2017-2018 and knock on wood so far the ceram seal has held solid. We do run a diaper on our baby just in case anything should spring a leak though.
A cracked block doesn't always have to be a death sentence.

Edit- I thought of one more piece of info. If you do find a crack and are able to access it another excellent option is LockNstitch. Basically it requires drilling a number of holes and hammering in some metal stitches. It's really a neat product that could save a guy a lot of money vs buying a new block and paying for all the machine work

 

[Jaybird1980]

I'm not trying to be a jerk when I say this but, BS! As soon as I get a chance and can remember how to post a picture I will.
True story... So we are only allowed to run water in our race engine, no antifreeze. We drain the radiator and block as best we can every year before the first freeze because unless we plan to be in the garage the heat is off. Block plug on drivers side won't come out. Drained RH side and blow compressed air through the system to push as much out as possible and left the radiator hoses off. Spring rolls around we get it all ready to fire up and as soon as it started to build heat ....drip...drip..drip. Shut it off and get to looking and the LH side of the block was cracked about an inch above the oil pan rain and was probably a good 6 inches long. Probably don't need to say it but this was on a rather pricey aftermarket block too.
So, just a little bit of water left in the block can very easily cause it to crack once it freezes.

If you have a crack like this happen, MOROSO sells a product (actually 2 types) called Cerama seal (may have different spelling) that works but make sure to follow the directions 100%. One type is for system s that only have water in them and one is for systems with antifreeze.
If you are only going to run water in an engine either keep the air temp above freezing or at least buy a couple heat lamps to keep things just warm enough not to be an issue

To be fair what I said is it lessens the chance verses a completely full and sealed system. I in know way implied it will prevent it.

I fully understand there is still a possibility of it cracking, which is why I told him to check it after he gets it out.

 

[thunderchicken]

To be fair what I said is it lessens the chance verses a completely full and sealed system. I in know way implied it will prevent it.

I fully understand there is still a possibility of it cracking, which is why I told him to check it after he gets it out.

I understood what you said. The point I was making is we used to think the same thing that with the block being so empty, it would allow plenty of room for expansion. But I'm not so sure that theory equates so well in the real world now.
Again, I wasn't trying to be a jerk. Just seems our perspective is different. But yes, he will need to check it when he gets it out

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Man. So cool.

 

[gregkl]

Man. So cool.

Love the sound of that! It reminded me of the movie Two Lane Blacktop which he referenced. If I was going to have a patina car, it would be like that; the look but super clean everywhere else.

I like his advice at the end that if you "have a dream, build it!"