Yep! My last truck, purchased new, had issues every sticking year of owner ship. Usually no big issues but enough that would make you curse at it. I held onto that thing for 10 years. I've had my current truck, bought used, for 6 years and has only had one minor issue....knock on wood! So much nicer not having to dick around repairing something every 6 months.I understand dedication but some folks seem to live for the fight.
There is a rational point that you let a turd go.
Or you dig in and waste a year of your life on stress and the insanity that ensues. Its a personal thing. My time is far more valuable and my stress levels have enough input.......
Move on its a car.
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Chevy mechanics or any mechanics?
- Thread starter CHCRandy
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Jaybird1980
Grandmaster
You definitely need to use a different dealership, that one is very shady. The AC Delco PCV itself is 10 dollars on Rockauto and comes with the o ring and and new bolt. $20 if it still has 2 (which I'm pretty sure it does).
This is the location, and you can see you don't have to take apart anything besides the plastic cover which doesn't have a gasket.
If it is infact a 1.5 you may think about moving it on while it still has some value, they are known to have serious issues around the 80-100k mark. (Like total rebuild issues) the 2.0 is better but oil in the intake will always exist, they even state 1 quart oil consumption per oil change cycle is within spec.
If you do look at a fusion make sure to get a 2.5l model only.
The Kia is turbocharged as well, I have no experience with them to know if they are any better.
Honestly the Toyota Camry 3.5 V6 is where it's at. If you want smaller the Corolla with the 2.0 is decent as well. But it only gets a couple more mpg and has way less power.
The Honda Civic 2.0 non turbo model is decent as well.
I know it sucks that there are not many American quality cars available now.
Sell it
I’ve worked on enough newer fords I will never ever go that route. I’m a Korean car fanboi. They are inexpensive, cheap to fix and easy to work on. I like to buy gently used for about half price or less than new and run them into the ground.
I don't have any experience with Kia, but I've absolutely loved my Hyundai. It's a 2011 (first and only car that I've ever bought brand new), still only about 85K on it, and all I've really had to do is change the oil and filters.
That engine is different than mine, my PCV valve sets 90 degree rotate of that one. Mine sets up and down instead of horizontal. The orfice part number is 12641875, but I couldnt find on Rockauto, GM only I think. Here is the TSB on mine...https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10178968-9999.pdf
They claim this condition is blowing rear mains out of the Equinox engines for some time, especially in real cold climates. Guess some guys are drilling the orfices so they don't block.
I thought these dealers had lost their minds, but I checked with my mechanic that is very trustworthy and he confirmed that replacing this orfice is a hell of a job. Parts are not much, but labor is excessive. Just to be clear, it's not my PCV valve that was blocked....its the underside of the PCV valve, inside the valve/cam cover.
I can assure you one thing, after dealing with these dealers........I can tell you one orfice that is not blocked, lmao.
It's really a cluster......to think what they charge us for this junk. I hate to buy an Asian car....but they may just push me that way. Thanks for your advice.......
Jaybird1980
Grandmaster
Yeah that is the 2016 and earlier but I thought they used the same valve in 2017+ just turned the location 90 to go out the top under the cover. Yes it will blow out seals, front and rear if the crankcase pressure doesn't vent. It will sound like a belt chirping. If the orifice itself is plugged then yes the covers would have to come off.
Glad it's fixed.
What Hyundai you have? Yeah, if I go this flavor it will be a Kia or Hyundai I think. My daughter likes her Kias and Lord knows they tough as hell to run 40 miles with no damn oil, lol.....but my neighbor just got a brand new loaded Hyundai Elantra, this thing is nice, and it listed at $23,000..he got it for nearly $17,000 and they gave him $33,000 trade for his Challenger that is a year old. He was happy. I don't know how he got $5000+ of MSRP though.
I like that the Kia and Hyundai, bumper to bumper warranty is almost double Chevy and Ford. I may go look at these this weekend during this memorial day sale hoopla. I love haggling on car prices anyway.....just sucks I get GM employee pricing, no specials for me with Kia or Hyundai I guess?
Wish you had not said that....because I noticed yesterday when I was sitting in McDonalds drive thru I thought I heard something that sounded like a belt chirping or rattling......I was hoping it was the car in front of me, and when that car left I didn't hear the chirping any longer......but now you got me wondering if it was me chirping. lol Surely them sob's really replaced that orfice.....they said it was clogged with carbon deposits.
I think I just need to suck it up and trade this pos. I got a guy who said he would buy it for $13,000......I should just sell it to him and go get something else. Just sucks because I need to buy a new truck...and man I hate having 2 payments, especially with a truck payment, and this car is paid for......but what good is it if I just have to worry about it breaking the next time.
Are you still rolling that old truck......
Jaybird1980
Grandmaster
Umm, just ignore my last message.
Seriously, if the guy is serious and you do have a 1.5l I would take that cash and not think twice. For 13k you can by a gently used Kia or Hyundai pretty easy and have 100k mile warranty, or look for a Camry and add a few dollars.
Good luck
I sure am.....about 420,000 miles on it now! Original engine and tranny, plowed snow since new. I got to replace it though....man, it can't go forever. I tell you what, I can't complain about that truck. If it blows up tomorrow.....it has been worth every penny I paid for it. Wish I had bought 2 of them and stored one.Are you still rolling that old truck......
I actually thought about doing an off the frame restoration and rebuild it all. I could probably make it a new truck for 1/3 of what a new truck is gonna cost me.......and there is very little that can break on that 2004 F250 that I can't fix on my own. I hate these newer vehicles.
Mine is an Elantra Touring - looks like a little station wagon. It came with a 10 year, 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty too.
On the Korean car front... I've had at least one continuously since 2002. Bought our first 02 Elantra new. Had that for 10 years and 167k miles and other than timing belts every 60k, tires, brakes and fluids it was flawless. Rust dictated it's replacement. We replaced that with our first Kia (pretty much same car company at this point), a 2010 Forte SX Sedan. HAd that car for too short of a time as the wife dictated I sell it to keep the 78 C10. Put 60k miles on it in 4 years, raced it for its entire life and it too was amazing. That was sold and eventually replaced with a $500 Tiburon that I put together for the $2000 challenge with the intent to run One Lap in 2020. That didn't work out, chassis was pretty sloppy (18 year old Korean eonomy car chassis with 230k miles, wearing stiff coilovers, huge brakes and 245 sticky tires... what could go wrong?). Sold it for the current racecar the 2013 Rio5 SX.
The wife got her first Korean car back in 05 when she was driving 100 miles a day for work and grad school. We bought a 2000 Accent with a bad wheel bearing and 108k miles. Put over 150k miles on it and they were ALL hard. This was the only car to leave her stranded. at 190k miles a $22 crank sensor died. Towed it home, pulled the codes, checked the sensor (it literally crumbled in my hand) and replaced it. We drove it another 60k miles and sold it for a grand. Replaced it with an 08 Rio sedan auto. Wife's sciatica had started acting up and having her an auto trans car made sense. We had that for about 5 years and 90k miles. I replaced the entire suspension around 120k (former rental car, and we were 3rd owners) with some cheap struts and H&R springs. even on the 185/60/14 goodyear allseasons it was a slot car. The lack of power and auto trans weren't an issue because you never had to lift for corners. She would embarass much faster cars on onramps. That got replaced with a 2014 Forte Koup we got cheap with a rebuilt title. It drove great, but whomever put it on the road half assed the srs and seatbelts. As those problems started popping up we sold the car and got her her current 2012 Rio5 SX. So we have matching cute cars.
The wife got her first Korean car back in 05 when she was driving 100 miles a day for work and grad school. We bought a 2000 Accent with a bad wheel bearing and 108k miles. Put over 150k miles on it and they were ALL hard. This was the only car to leave her stranded. at 190k miles a $22 crank sensor died. Towed it home, pulled the codes, checked the sensor (it literally crumbled in my hand) and replaced it. We drove it another 60k miles and sold it for a grand. Replaced it with an 08 Rio sedan auto. Wife's sciatica had started acting up and having her an auto trans car made sense. We had that for about 5 years and 90k miles. I replaced the entire suspension around 120k (former rental car, and we were 3rd owners) with some cheap struts and H&R springs. even on the 185/60/14 goodyear allseasons it was a slot car. The lack of power and auto trans weren't an issue because you never had to lift for corners. She would embarass much faster cars on onramps. That got replaced with a 2014 Forte Koup we got cheap with a rebuilt title. It drove great, but whomever put it on the road half assed the srs and seatbelts. As those problems started popping up we sold the car and got her her current 2012 Rio5 SX. So we have matching cute cars.
Found my Fusion Platinum on AutoTempest.com. Only had 6500 miles, half price of a new one and exactly what I wanted. My second Fusion. Looked for a few months before I bought it. Was one of the first vehicles I “saved” before I started contacting the dealers. Lucky they still had it. My dad once told me the best time to buy a car is when you don’t need one. Can apply that advice to a lot in life.
When it comes to buying new/used vehicles, my general advice is: Stay away from anything with forced induction and/or a CVT. This whole-heartedly also includes Subaru, Honda, Toyota, Kia, Hyundai, and aboslutely positively includes Nissan. . And assuredly includes anything "Domestic". If I'm forced at gun-point to make a concession on the CVT, it would be a Subaru - but there are plenty of other engine / seal / crap that goes on with their engines, too.
Get a dang used Camry or Accord (old enough to not have the CVT) and call it good.
Get a dang used Camry or Accord (old enough to not have the CVT) and call it good.
Dang, I went to that website and 2017 Malibu LT's with 70,000+ miles $18,000+........are these guys really getting this for used cars? No wonder that guy offered me $13,000!
This is my exact car, just lower mileage....mine has 53,000. No way they are getting this are they? I didnt pay that new....
2017 Chevrolet Malibu - Carvana
Used 2017 Chevrolet Malibu LT Sedan 4D for $18,990 with 22,742 miles. | Carvana
www.carvana.com
I bet they are.Dang, I went to that website and 2017 Malibu LT's with 70,000+ miles $18,000+........are these guys really getting this for used cars? No wonder that guy offered me $13,000!
This is my exact car, just lower mileage....mine has 53,000. No way they are getting this are they? I didnt pay that new....
2017 Chevrolet Malibu - Carvana
Used 2017 Chevrolet Malibu LT Sedan 4D for $18,990 with 22,742 miles. | Carvana
I just bought a '20 GMC AT4 , They had a '17 - '19 ( I don't remember the exact year) Chevy Trail Boss with 43K on it and they only wanted like 2k less than the new truck
yep unfortunately used prices have gone through the roof. I was eyeballing 2 year old trucks spring of last year, same trucks now are $10k more than they were last spring. Granted my truck is up in value too but not $10k so I've put off any purchase until at least next year.
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