Any Jeepers in here?

[terrehautian]

After my last wheeling trip, my wife said, "if your jeep was taller, you could do more right?" Needless to say, a 4" lift and 32's are on the order for later this year after I get my new bumpers on.

 

[danielson]

Your a lucky man.

 

[Caleb]

Dump the *****. If she cant wheel, theres no deal.

but...but....but she has boobs and can make sandwiches!

 

[Caleb]

After my last wheeling trip, my wife said, "if your jeep was taller, you could do more right?" Needless to say, a 4" lift and 32's are on the order for later this year after I get my new bumpers on.

lucky...I'm still spending money on my darn front axle.

 

[danielson]

but...but....but she has boobs and can make sandwiches!

I see a major flaw in your logic. My boss has boobs, and he makes sandwiches for his pre lunch and post lunch snacks, all the time.

Something to think about...

 

[Caleb]

I see a major flaw in your logic. My boss has boobs, and he makes sandwiches for his pre lunch and post lunch snacks, all the time.

Something to think about...

I said boobs, not manboobs

 

[Caleb]

Called the shop...the transfer case on my jeep is making noise. They believe it's the shifter fork, but only way to tell for sure is to take it apart. It was also bone dry, so there's either a crack somewhere or a leak...

 

[Sgtusmc]

ON THE WAY!

 

[Caleb]

ON THE WAY!

Cool!

 

[jath08]

Called the shop...the transfer case on my jeep is making noise. They believe it's the shifter fork, but only way to tell for sure is to take it apart. It was also bone dry, so there's either a crack somewhere or a leak...

Check the rubber vent cap on the top of the t-case. ( depending on the type of the t-case) I have a 99 WJ (NP247) that started leaking and somehow the vent went missing. It also was leaking fluid from the rear output shaft seal. Replaced it and got a new vent and all is good now. If you cant see fluid leaking anywhere then good chance it may be the front input shaft seal and the only way to check it is unbolt the t-case from the transmission.

 

[terrehautian]

look ok what showed up today, my new front bumper. Now to get prep stuff, primer and spray paint to paint both bumpers.

 

[lovemachine]

I just ordered some viking offroad d-rings and a rear bumper frame tie-in kit to beef up my new rear bumper for towing.

Just finished getting rid of the Chinese stuff. All American made after market parts are on my jeep now.

 

[terrehautian]

Unwrapped pictures.

 

[Darral27]

I recently purchased a 1999 jeep wrangler, 4.0, auto trans 114,000 miles. Light rollover so need to replace a door, front fenders, windshield wrap. I got a kids between 14 and 5 so it should be a fun project for the next couple years. Had a recent personal set back but really looking forward to getting started on the work .

 

[Caleb]

Check the rubber vent cap on the top of the t-case. ( depending on the type of the t-case) I have a 99 WJ (NP247) that started leaking and somehow the vent went missing. It also was leaking fluid from the rear output shaft seal. Replaced it and got a new vent and all is good now. If you cant see fluid leaking anywhere then good chance it may be the front input shaft seal and the only way to check it is unbolt the t-case from the transmission.

I may be getting a different TC...I'm weary about buying a used unit, I never know if they are going to be in worse shape then the one on my jeep.

 

[jath08]

Rusted spring perch fix for a WJ

Hey all, I hope some of you guys find this beneficial especially if someone is experiencing the same problems with rust. I wanted to share a spring perch fix that I had to do this past weekend when I was installing a new lift on My 99 WJ. When I went to remove the old coil and isolator the perch was so badly rusted it completely fell apart. I had to come up with a quick solution and it was either get a whole different front axle that wasn't rusted and do a swap or fab something up. I decided it was easier to fab something up. This is what I had to deal with.

.
Heres what I used. 3" o.d. DOM tubing cut to 4 1/2" for length x 2. I went with the 4 1/2" length to act as a spring retainer. 1/2 steel plate cut to 6x6 squares x 2 for the new bases. 1/8 mild steel plate cut to 3x3 squares x 2 for caps. In the pics you will see 2 3/4 DOM tubing that I bought to make rear spring perches just in case they needed to be replaced, but I didn't do them as the rears were in good shape. I chose 1/2 plate to give me an extra 1/2 of lift up front to level the WJ out and get rid of the rake. If you don't want the extra lift I'd suggest using 1/8 or 3/16 inch plate as a new base to weld the perch to if you don't have enough existing perch base to weld to after you clean it up and remove the rust.

I started off by taking one of the new coil isolators and tracing the outline onto the 6x6 plates. I used an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the round outline of the isolator. Then I took a regular grinding disc and flap wheel disc to grind and shape the edges as round as I could get them to match the new isolators and give them a good base to sit on. I also mad a cut into the edge of the plate for the isolator button to recess down into and keep it from twisting around the perch. I did have to cut a 1/4' of rubber from the inside if the new isolator to get it to fit snug over the 3" diameter tubing.



Here's what the new perches and base plates look like all welded together and polished up with a flap disc wheel.


I removed all the rust off with a wire wheel and flap disc grinder wheel. I ground the rest of the old perch down to where it was completely flat so the new base plate and spring perch would sit flush.

View attachment 27537

After centering the new perch and base plate on top of where the old perch mount sat, I tack welded it into place in three different spots. I ran a total of three beads all the way around, overlapping the welds. It wasn't an easy task trying to get perfect welds due to the tight quarters, some of the angles and the fact that the MIG gun couldn't fit easily into some of the spots made it a bit difficult to do. A stick welder probably would have done a better job. Or it would have been a lot easier to weld if you wanted to remove the axle entirely. That was more work than I cared to do, and I really didn't care how the welds looked, just how well they held.
View attachment 27539

I cleaned the welds up a little with a grinding disc and flap disc grinding wheel and then sprayed them with a black epoxy paint that has a high tolerance to salt corrosion. The paint I used was VHT all weather epoxy paint in gloss black from Autozone.I put a total of 4 coats of this on. I allowed it to dry for a couple hours and then put the new isolator on and reassembled everything. Its a little bit dark in this pic but you can see how it looks all painted and ready to reassemble.


It worked like a charm and functions great. I did gain a full half inch in height in the front which was exactly what I expected to gain. It also leveled the WJ out and got rid of the rake. It was pretty cheap as well. I spent a total of $47.00 bucks on all the steel cut to length and that included the epoxy paint. I got the steel from Warner Steel Sales over on East Raymond Street in Indianapolis which they will cut anything you want to the size you want for free.
Hope this may help someone out there with similar issues with there spring perches.
I may be fabbing a steel winch bumper in the future along with replacing rusted out rocker panels with 6x3 square tubing to act as functional rock sliders.

 

[Caleb]

Where do you guys get your 33x12.5x15 tires from?

 

[hardtrailz400]

Where do you guys get your 33x12.5x15 tires from?

Store....like any other tires.








I been using discount tire direct and cant beat the deals on wheels and tires. 4 sets in past couple years with no issues.

 

[Caleb]

Store....like any other tires.








I been using discount tire direct and cant beat the deals on wheels and tires. 4 sets in past couple years with no issues.

How much do you find yourself saving with discount tires?

 

[hardtrailz400]

How much do you find yourself saving with discount tires?

Depends on what set and if you buy wheels too. I found that ordering online many times gets you $50 off per set, another $30 Visa rebate card if you use their in-store free interest Credit Card(even if you pay it off right away), free shipping, if you buy wheels as well, you save another 50, another 30 and the 60 bucks you would pay mounting and balancing. They ship a set of rims and tires mounted and balanced ready to bolt on which is quite nice.

I shopped my current set of 35 inch tires and 17 inch wheels locally at about $2150 and through DTD...ready to bolt on shipped to my door..it was under $1700 for a set of 5.

I found them about 25-50 bucks cheaper on rubber alone local.