The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[femurphy77]

Snipped.

Let me know what you guys think!

I think you're insane.

















I love it.

 

[jeffsqartan]

How much do you drive this on the street?

Drive? This car hasn't seen a drive since I bought it two years ago lol.
"Ultimate 10 Second Street Car" is going to be the name of the game for me, though. It will need to run in the 10's (even a high 10 is fine) and be reliable on the street.

 

[thunderchicken]

Drive? This car hasn't seen a drive since I bought it two years ago lol.
"Ultimate 10 Second Street Car" is going to be the name of the game for me, though. It will need to run in the 10's (even a high 10 is fine) and be reliable on the street.

Ok then just a thought.
Cut out the metal inner fender areas between the strut towers and core support. That will give you a lot more room to mount those turbos and all the piping.
If you get real froggy, you could even replace the factory front bumper with just a bar. That will open things up in front of the radiator and maybe able to mount the turbos in the front corners. Just a couple thoughts

I know it's crazy expensive to buy, but look at the Team Z tubular front end kit and you will get an idea of the space cutting some of that out will free up

 

[thunderchicken]

I have missed our resident mad scientist.

He is definitely a mad scientist lol. Not that that's a bad thing just definitely thinks outside the box with some wild ideas

 

[Jaybird1980]

Drive? This car hasn't seen a drive since I bought it two years ago lol.
"Ultimate 10 Second Street Car" is going to be the name of the game for me, though. It will need to run in the 10's (even a high 10 is fine) and be reliable on the street.

The chicken has the right idea I think. Ditch as much of the inner fenders as you can, move starter solenoid and whatever else you can. Passenger side, ditch the coolant reservoir and washer tank and you may have a bunch of extra room. Move to a smaller reservoir relocated.

 

[Bigtanker]

Just stick them out of the hood ala Ruby & Leroy.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I know one place you have plenty of room.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I think I can do it without cutting out the inner fender wells. Since this car is a CLEAN 4 cylinder Notch, no accidents or anything, I'd really like to leave it all intact if I can. I've seen the tubular front end kits and figure worst case Ontario I would go that route, but I'm really trying not to do it. I don't know why - just a challenge that I feel necessary to overcome?

Also, I 100% plan on street driving this car. Like, daily driving it for work and everything. I want it to be as sleeper status as it can be. Though, the hood I'm looking at and wheels/tires may give it away.

The battery is going to be moved to either the driver side or the trunk. All that wiring is going away or getting moved. I'm only leaving things there because I don't have a new wiring plan just yet and I don't want to miss something stupid when I go to wire this up.
I'll be running the Holley Terminator X Max to control the engine and transmission. A lot of wiring will go away because of that.

Btw, I did end up buying that Mountaineer from Jaybird the other week. It runs and drives pretty well. I'm happy to throw that transmission in the Notch. Not sure what's happening with the 302 and 8.8, though.

 

[Bosshoss]

Not sure what's happening with the 302 and 8.8, though.

That 8.8 with disc brakes is a really popular rear end swap for Jeep TJ's. Lots of folks looking for them on the Jeep forums.

 

[jeffsqartan]

That 8.8 with disc brakes is a really popular rear end swap for Jeep TJ's. Lots of folks looking for them on the Jeep forums.

Hm.... my Dad has a Jeep TJ with drum brakes... maybe he and I should have a talk lol
I would actually do that, but then it means I have to install it, and there's just no way I have that kind of time anytime soon.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I think I can do it without cutting out the inner fender wells. Since this car is a CLEAN 4 cylinder Notch, no accidents or anything, I'd really like to leave it all intact if I can. I've seen the tubular front end kits and figure worst case Ontario I would go that route, but I'm really trying not to do it. I don't know why - just a challenge that I feel necessary to overcome?

Also, I 100% plan on street driving this car. Like, daily driving it for work and everything. I want it to be as sleeper status as it can be. Though, the hood I'm looking at and wheels/tires may give it away.

The battery is going to be moved to either the driver side or the trunk. All that wiring is going away or getting moved. I'm only leaving things there because I don't have a new wiring plan just yet and I don't want to miss something stupid when I go to wire this up.
I'll be running the Holley Terminator X Max to control the engine and transmission. A lot of wiring will go away because of that.

Btw, I did end up buying that Mountaineer from Jaybird the other week. It runs and drives pretty well. I'm happy to throw that transmission in the Notch. Not sure what's happening with the 302 and 8.8, though.

So did you start tearing it apart, or throw a coat of wax on it and take the little lady out on the town?

 

[RustyHornet]

Latest project at work. Man oh man I’m in love. So excited to get this one back on the road after it’s 20 year nap. Original family owned, dad passed away last year and his sons are having us get it going again.

Original owner parked it 20 years ago after some kids broke into in and tore up the dash trying to steal the cassette deck… He couldn’t stand to look at it like that and parked it…. Sadly, he’d never drive it again….

This one hits home as my boss ran one of these that was his buddies in high school on the streets back in the day, and then had one himself a few years later. There was 4 of these W-30 cars running around the Fort back then, this car being one.

It’s set up perfectly! 10” Cragars out back and 6” up front. 90/10 shocks in front for weight transfer and air shocks in the rear. Owner opted for zero options besides the automatic transmission. Manual steering, manual brakes, bench seat 370hp 455ci with 500ft lbs. Stab and steer never seemed so good.

We are deep in redoing brakes, cooling system, carb, distributor and replacing all the rubber components. Paint is mostly original minus some work on the rear after an accident years ago. 50,000 miles on the clock.

1970 Oldsmobile 442 W-30

The sons have chosen to keep it as their dad had it, so we got radial tires coming for these Cragars and some replacement drag shocks.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Latest project at work. Man oh man I’m in love. So excited to get this one back on the road after it’s 20 year nap. Original family owned, dad passed away last year and his sons are having us get it going again.

Original owner parked it 20 years ago after some kids broke into in and tore up the dash trying to steal the cassette deck… He couldn’t stand to look at it like that and parked it…. Sadly, he’d never drive it again….

This one hits home as my boss ran one of these that was his buddies in high school on the streets back in the day, and then had one himself a few years later. There was 4 of these W-30 cars running around the Fort back then, this car being one.

It’s set up perfectly! 10” Cragars out back and 6” up front. 90/10 shocks in front for weight transfer and air shocks in the rear. Owner opted for zero options besides the automatic transmission. Manual steering, manual brakes, bench seat 370hp 455ci with 500ft lbs. Stab and steer never seemed so good.

We are deep in redoing brakes, cooling system, carb, distributor and replacing all the rubber components. Paint is mostly original minus some work on the rear after an accident years ago. 50,000 miles on the clock.

1970 Oldsmobile 442 W-30

The sons have chosen to keep it as their dad had it, so we got radial tires coming for these Cragars and some replacement drag shocks.

View attachment 162885View attachment 162886View attachment 162887View attachment 162888
View attachment 162889

Wow. Long time no see my friend.

Also, that’s my Dad’s favorite car. Gorgeous.

 

[RustyHornet]

Wow. Long time no see my friend.

Also, that’s my Dad’s favorite car. Gorgeous.

I’m here. Lol.

Your dad has good taste. It’s in my top 5 muscle cars. The Olds v8 sound is my favorite engine sound of all time. Just can’t beat it.

 

[jeffsqartan]

So did you start tearing it apart, or throw a coat of wax on it and take the little lady out on the town?

lol it's sitting out back at the moment. I got sick the next day, felt like crap for half the week, and it was raining. I drove it around the block. That water leak is literally raining water down, so I didn't want to risk running it out of water and burning something up. It felt super strong, though. I'm very tempted to pull the engine, fix the leak, and throw it in the convertible...

 

[Jaybird1980]

lol it's sitting out back at the moment. I got sick the next day, felt like crap for half the week, and it was raining. I drove it around the block. That water leak is literally raining water down, so I didn't want to risk running it out of water and burning something up. It felt super strong, though. I'm very tempted to pull the engine, fix the leak, and throw it in the convertible...

I wasn't sure which water leak was going to be worse, the windshield or the engine.

I know for sure none of those 180k+ miles were driven hard, but the maintenance I guarantee wasn't very good either. While you have it opened up throw a cam,springs, lifters and new timing chain setup in it and send it. I would personally pull the heads, new head gaskets, freshen up the seals and clean them. Regasket the oil pan and rear main seal and new main/rod bearings while you have it out. Probably would last for quite some time.

 

[churchmouse]

I’m here. Lol.

Your dad has good taste. It’s in my top 5 muscle cars. The Olds v8 sound is my favorite engine sound of all time. Just can’t beat it.

OMG I am in love.
mine was a more loaded car than this one and yes I love these cars.
370HP my ass

 

[gregkl]

Latest project at work. Man oh man I’m in love. So excited to get this one back on the road after it’s 20 year nap. Original family owned, dad passed away last year and his sons are having us get it going again.

Original owner parked it 20 years ago after some kids broke into in and tore up the dash trying to steal the cassette deck… He couldn’t stand to look at it like that and parked it…. Sadly, he’d never drive it again….

This one hits home as my boss ran one of these that was his buddies in high school on the streets back in the day, and then had one himself a few years later. There was 4 of these W-30 cars running around the Fort back then, this car being one.

It’s set up perfectly! 10” Cragars out back and 6” up front. 90/10 shocks in front for weight transfer and air shocks in the rear. Owner opted for zero options besides the automatic transmission. Manual steering, manual brakes, bench seat 370hp 455ci with 500ft lbs. Stab and steer never seemed so good.

We are deep in redoing brakes, cooling system, carb, distributor and replacing all the rubber components. Paint is mostly original minus some work on the rear after an accident years ago. 50,000 miles on the clock.

1970 Oldsmobile 442 W-30

The sons have chosen to keep it as their dad had it, so we got radial tires coming for these Cragars and some replacement drag shocks.

View attachment 162886

Very nice car. It would be fun to work on something like this.

 

[thunderchicken]

I think I can do it without cutting out the inner fender wells. Since this car is a CLEAN 4 cylinder Notch, no accidents or anything, I'd really like to leave it all intact if I can. I've seen the tubular front end kits and figure worst case Ontario I would go that route, but I'm really trying not to do it. I don't know why - just a challenge that I feel necessary to overcome?

Also, I 100% plan on street driving this car. Like, daily driving it for work and everything. I want it to be as sleeper status as it can be. Though, the hood I'm looking at and wheels/tires may give it away.

The battery is going to be moved to either the driver side or the trunk. All that wiring is going away or getting moved. I'm only leaving things there because I don't have a new wiring plan just yet and I don't want to miss something stupid when I go to wire this up.
I'll be running the Holley Terminator X Max to control the engine and transmission. A lot of wiring will go away because of that.

Btw, I did end up buying that Mountaineer from Jaybird the other week. It runs and drives pretty well. I'm happy to throw that transmission in the Notch. Not sure what's happening with the 302 and 8.8, though.

Sounds like a good plan but I will bet to many, the whining of the turbos spoiling will give it away lol

 

[Jaybird1980]

Well I can say I’ve never spent so much time with the throttle pinned to the floor in my life.

So I can't stop wondering, what was the top speed for this little hotrod?
And would you change anything beforehand, knowing what you know now.