The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 2: No Replacement For Displacement

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    churchmouse

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    it's a lunchbox locker but it does the trick. Makes double S's. Although, EVERY burn out pushes the rear to the right.... so maybe it's not 100% cnetered still?

    OK I remember looking that up when you put it in the truck. Pretty neat actually.
    Hard to say why it is pushing right. Have you put the truck on an alignment rack. The one my buddy chris checks all 4 wheels. Just a thought.
     

    bobzilla

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    Alright motor heads.... we're sellingthe daily Rio in preparations for building engine for the truck because old. Here's what I'm thinking :
    97 roller cam block, bored .030 over
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2168 185cc aluminum heads, 64cc chambers
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-17351c-30 flat tops/rings
    stock replacement crank kit(crank, bearings)
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-502-8 roller cam
    new chain, pump etc all the other goodies needed for a new motor.

    My goal is pump gas and an easy 300whp. Will this combo do that?
     

    ChristianPatriot

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    Alright motor heads.... we're sellingthe daily Rio in preparations for building engine for the truck because old. Here's what I'm thinking :
    97 roller cam block, bored .030 over
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2168 185cc aluminum heads, 64cc chambers
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-17351c-30 flat tops/rings
    stock replacement crank kit(crank, bearings)
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-502-8 roller cam
    new chain, pump etc all the other goodies needed for a new motor.

    My goal is pump gas and an easy 300whp. Will this combo do that?

    It’d be hard NOT to make 300hp with better heads and a street roller cam. I’d guess closer to 350hp depending on cam/compression.
     

    churchmouse

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    Alright motor heads.... we're sellingthe daily Rio in preparations for building engine for the truck because old. Here's what I'm thinking :
    97 roller cam block, bored .030 over
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2168 185cc aluminum heads, 64cc chambers
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-17351c-30 flat tops/rings
    stock replacement crank kit(crank, bearings)
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-502-8 roller cam
    new chain, pump etc all the other goodies needed for a new motor.

    My goal is pump gas and an easy 300whp. Will this combo do that?

    97 minimum with the head piston combo. 62cc chambers and those flat tops will push the CR up a bit.
    That cam has a very wide power bans and should fit what you are doing with the truck.
    Thing is we have a hydraulic grind that will out rev the cam you are looking at and it does not require heavy springs.
    You might need just a bit more camshaft to reach those RWHP goals but maybe not.
     

    churchmouse

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    trying to get the compression ratio in the 9.5-10 area so 89 octane will survive with the aluminum heads.

    If you have enough radiator/fan 9.5 will work with less timing. Plus not all unleaded is created equal. Know your source.
    Power costs money. Not only to build but maintain but you already know this.
    Your selected combo should be easy to achieve 375/400 at the crank. With timing and cam 2 you can push those numbers north of that easy enough.
     

    bobzilla

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    Brownswhitanon.
    I’d be shocked if the current engine still made 200hp at the crank and is still fun. I have a new 29” aluminum 3 core and the grille area is hugenormous.
     

    churchmouse

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    I’d be shocked if the current engine still made 200hp at the crank and is still fun. I have a new 29” aluminum 3 core and the grille area is hugenormous.

    Are you running the stock fan with the new Rad or electrics. I like the electrics as they still pull a lot of air at idle.

    With the 3 peddle set up and a solid 400 at the crank the truck mite just get a bit scary.....:):
     

    bobzilla

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    16” electric. Pulls 2660 cfm. I’ve got it wired so I can run itnignition off if needed to help cool on hot summer days. And yes...I’m hoping it gets a little scary
     

    churchmouse

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    16” electric. Pulls 2660 cfm. I’ve got it wired so I can run itnignition off if needed to help cool on hot summer days. And yes...I’m hoping it gets a little scary

    In my drag cars I had a switch on the painless panel marked "C" for cool down.
    Park at the trailers. Flip on the "C" switch. It engaged the electric pump and fans. It operated on a block temp sensor that shut it all off at 100* and if it was a really hot day and the block heat sinked it would cycle the system again. Engines were right at 100* when we fired up to run again. Twin batts in both cars so no issues.
    If we made the quarter finals and had to park right back in the lanes we never had hot box issues even on the hottest days.
     

    bobzilla

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    churchmouse

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    So it looks like this eheads and pistons would be 10.24:1 with a standard .041 head gasket. If I used felpro.051 head gaskets that drops it to spot on10:1

    Just off the top of my head I figured 10.5 with the combo you had picked out. 10 to 1 with a good radiator should be OK just watch the timing if you have V-advance hooked up. We always pulled them off and set it right where we wanted it. Mark the block/dist and tune it with good fuel for race day. Do not be a girl.....do it. You will thank me...:):
     
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