The pan forms some drips on it. Can't remember if there is any coming from elsewhere. I know the transfer case has a slow drip too. Be nice to just replace the pan seal only. Would that require the pan replaced, or just a seal if it was over-torqued?
Buy an aftermarket aluminum pan, heavy flange, won't drip. Oh and ditch the damned rubber pan gasket they're crap!
Ok, rubber gasket out. What to replace it with? Permatex gasket maker?
Forgive my lack of knowledge. My background is in construction and engineering, not autos. Hence I ask lots of questions, to learn.
If you go with the aftermarket pan like a good cast piece just use the stock gasket that comes with it. Use some good permatex RTV to hold it on the trans (after you clean the gasket surface with some solvent) and torque to spec.
Or.....pull the pan off, clean it up. Make the bolt holes back flat with a ball peen and a proper dolly and do the same process as above.
Both will work.
Ordered a catless x-pipe for the Modstang. Should really make the Flowmasters sing.
Ordered a catless x-pipe for the Modstang. Should really make the Flowmasters sing.
Doesn't that screw with the O2 sensors?
Well we actually took the Galaxie out to the cruise in here in Mooresville last night. It still has a long way to go but has at least made a round trip without major problems. I noticed it's blowing oil out of the dipstick in spite of venting off of both valve covers and for some reason the timing keeps changing on me. One time I set it and it's right on and then when I check it at a later time it's advanced 20 degrees. Reset it and a little while later it's 20 degrees retarded! The only thing I can figure is a problem with the mechanical or vacuum advance and since I'm not familiar with GM style mechanical advance I'm kind of at a loss. I think I'm going to try locking down the mechanical advance and see if the timing will stay at its setpoint. If that works I'll pull the distributor and see if it's repairable or maybe just replace it.
Doesn't that screw with the O2 sensors?
There's two sets of O2s. The pre-cat set is what the computer uses to adjust the fuel tables. The post-cat set is what monitors the cats themselves. If you just remove the cats then it will throw a code. They sell (and I bought) a set of O2 "foolers" that plug into the post-cat sensors to prevent the check engine light.
Bingo.
She will be noticably louder, but I'm okay with that
And may well grow some more balls.
It'll definitely be more difficult to stay out of it.
And your point is.....
Wow. That is a lot of variance. The advance mechanism will (or should not) not give you 40 degrees. (+20/-20) Is the shaft key on the gear missing or does the Ford fit in a slot. That is a lot.