The Official 3d Printing thread

[Sailor]

In PETG it will not separate. I have been trying with vice grips on a piece the warped. Its more flexi than ABS but the layers are welded.

 

[Sailor]

Two is one.....

 

[1911ly]

I did some more tinkering with the printer. I added a off on switch. I need to design & print a cover to keep fingers from touching the wiring on the back side.



I added a wire loop to support the hot end and stepper wiring.



And I finally got around to installing the heat bed relay.



Next project will be to shorten up the wiring so I can get rid of this rats nest. I can probably remove 10-15 ft of wire if I added up all the lengths.



I am going to order a few pieces of 20x20 rail and some corner brackets and run a braces behind the front edge and rear edges of the Y axis bed rail and then run a brace from the X axis rails to the Y rails. This will basically make it a sudo 8 inch Pegasus. It's a cheap upgrade and will stiffen the frame greatly and square it firmly. I will post pictures when I get it done.

I also am ordering the rail for the frame on the homebrew 12 inch. I am going to try to document the build and make a parts list in case anyone wants to duplicate it. I already got the stepper brackets and the braces & brackets for the X carriage. I ordered them from Makerfarm. It will be similar to the Pegasus but I want to not have the frame all the way around the top. A more open design in the front.

I am having fun!!

 

[1911ly]

Two is one.....

Too cool!

 

[Sailor]

Looks great!

 

[Sailor]

If I enclosed my printer should I box out that power supply area?

No way to have the stepper motors outside the enclosed area.

 

[7.62]

If I enclosed my printer should I box out that power supply area?

No way to have the stepper motors outside the enclosed area.

I would defintely try to design it that way, if possible. I think it will help prevent issues down the road. Thats the way I plan to do mine as soon as I have the time.

 

[7.62]

I like this idea...

3ders.org - New IKEA hack lets you create a 3D printer enclosure for cheap | 3D Printer News & 3D Printing News

 

[1911ly]

If I enclosed my printer should I box out that power supply area?

No way to have the stepper motors outside the enclosed area.

That's what we are planning on doing with Harry's. We were talking about that when I was over there last.


I was reading back threw the thread and I must have skipped over your block coming loose. Is the nozzle flush against the heat block? Make sure it is. If it isn't the only thing holding the block together is the outward pressure of the heatsink and nozzle thread contact. If it is not flush with the block you will have to remove the hot head and tighten it.

Even if it flush you might want to do this anyway:

Separate the hot head from the extruder and loosen the heatsink from the block a 5-6 turns. Make sure the stem comes out when it comes loose. If the stem stays in just grip it loosely with needle nose pliers and back it out. If it is not easy it will unscrew easily with the nozzle loose. Hold the block with a adjustable wrench. The next step will burn you if you are not careful. Loosen the nozzle. If it won't come out there might be plastic in it. That's ok. Turn the heater anyway for the next step. Leave it on only for a few seconds. It will get hot fast without the heatsink.

When it gets to between 175 and 200 carefully loosen the nozzle then tighten the thing really tight .And if the stem did not come out earlier you can back it out now before you tighten the nozzle. Back out the stem enough that the nozzle will seat against the block. Hold everything square and try not to get burned. If you can do it with gloves on do it, I was careful and did not use them. Now, while it is still hot screw the heatsink in to the block. Hold the block firmly and squarely, the same goes for the heatsink.

Tighten the heatsink with a pair of pliers or channel locks. I grip it as close to the block end as I can. I wish they would have put a flat spot on the heatsink to hold it by. Really tighten it but don't let it tilt or you can break the threads off the stem in the heatsink. Use some good judgement on the tightness, If you don't tight it while the block is hot it will never really get tight enough. You will need to crank the heat up to get it apart later on. You really need tighten it this way. Mine came loose twice the first day. It hasn't since. I did Harry's this way and it is still tight. It never has came loose. It won't easily come loose again.

And if you don't get a blister or two, you did good! lol.

 

[1911ly]

I like this idea...

3ders.org - New IKEA hack lets you create a 3D printer enclosure for cheap | 3D Printer News & 3D Printing News

That's cool. And I see those this sitting at the curb every now and then. Great ideal!

 

[Sailor]

6 hours into a 7 hr spool holder print and my bed has no heat.

12v to the wires though.

email support ongoing.

 

[Ericpwp]

My heated bed is just resistance making the heat. Hit it with an ohmmeter.

 

[1911ly]

That truly sucks!! Is there voltage coming out of the relay going to the bed? The relay might have Bad contact. Hopefully the bed element is ok. Maybe a wire is broken at the bed?

 

[Sailor]

Yep, D8 has 12v, relay cliks, led flashes on ramps. Ohm of the bed wire at the relay are .8 with no power and 6.9-7.2 when bed is turned on via LCD.

 

[Sailor]

16 AWG wiring at the power supply to relay, pretty sure thats not supposed to look like this.

 

[Sailor]

So yeah, use another terminal or replace the power supply? But first what caused it?

 

[Sailor]

If I knew more about electronics before building this I would have known that 16 AWG is too thin for the amps being drawn. I did not even know how many amps that was. The build instructions do not specify, but show using the speaker wire that was referenced in the parts needed. Which was 16 awg. Literally following instructions can get you in trouble.


Colin says I can double up the two ramps power wires and fan on a connector then have the heat bed on its own. Newer kits have the relay already attached.


Picking up some 12 or 10 AWG on way home from work and will see if it works.

 

[Sailor]

1911 this thing is torn apart now, post some pics of Harrys wiring organization when you get a chance.

Thanks.

 

[Ericpwp]

I ran 14 AWG to my beds. Ohm's law. e=ir 12v/resistance of bed=amps. That seems like a really hot bed.

My beds were too resistive to get hot enough, so I ran two in parallel and stacked them.

 

[1911ly]

The screw was not tight enough. Tinned wired will tended to flatten out as it get hot when under the pressure of a screw. The connection came loose. It got hot from lack of contact. I am also using 14 gauge wire. Replace the wire but check it for tightness once in a while. 2 runs would be better on the 12in bed. I can get away with 1 pair on the 8in. When you are using the relay you do not need both sets of wire going to the ramps to be heavy gauge. Just one needs to be heavy. The one that feeds the nozzle. The second input is now only powering the heat bed relay.