-
Be sure to read this post! Beware of scammers. https://www.indianagunowners.com/threads/classifieds-new-online-payment-guidelines-rules-paypal-venmo-zelle-etc.511734/
My J-frame Journey
- Thread starter 45sRfun
- Start date
The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana
Member Benefits:
Fewer Ads! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
You are right. In that situation, getting a J-frame back, even an expensive one, will not be the issue or concern. My home defense guns include a Steve (S&W SD9VE) and a Ruger PC9 carbine. I should get more mags for the PC9, like maybe 10 of the 33-round mags and stuff them all full to be prepared. I am in the city so 9mm will suffice around the house IMO.
Wasn't finding the special cleaning advice for titanium cylinders in the manual as it is not in the cleaning section but in a section for gunsmiths:
A brass brush is not abrasive, but I used nylon to be cautious. But some of the residue from firing the gun might prove to be abrasive as it is cleaned out?
This is interesting but if there is roughness inside my titanium cylinder I cannot polish it out per the note in previous post.
Yup, it sure sounds like that Ti cylinder requires some babying. None of the typical fixes work since they are recommended for steel. When I searched for a good solvent to use on Ti cylinders, the common theme was stay away from ammonia based cleaners. I do not know if it is in the manual or if some chemist said it but it sure was the consensus.
Thinking what if I chuck the nylon brush into the drill and give it a go? Probably don't want to do it dry though so perhaps a steady stream of CLP as I go.
I think a brass brush would be okay for manual cleaning but would not do the brass in the drill.
Whats the worst that would happen? Have you shot it since you gave it a good cleaning a couple days ago?
My youngest daughter has my old J-frame blued Mdl 36, and my oldest has my old mdl 60.
The model 60, was already stainless, but a Coastie, out of Washington State, had added a dull grey super rust preventer Thai I guess the Coast Guard used.
I wish I had kept my Mdl-37 though to today.
The model 60, was already stainless, but a Coastie, out of Washington State, had added a dull grey super rust preventer Thai I guess the Coast Guard used.
I wish I had kept my Mdl-37 though to today.
Just a couple hours ago. The 340 PD performed well today. Ran 7 cylinders of .357 and only had minor extraction problems on first two cylinders, but once I started giving the ejector a firm smack there was no further extraction problems. Also .357 is not too hard to handle in this light weight gun.
Today's range session. Again, all at 5 yards. All 2 hands unless stated otherwise. I used a glove with padding on the right hand. I am not a great shot and my groups worsened as the range session progressed. These are in order of firing. All .357 Magnums.
5 rounds Golden Saber 125 grain JHP
Cavalry 158 grain JHP:
Cavalry. the hole with the arrow is a different group.
Here I either got sloppy or it is fatigue. Cavalry again:
Cavalry, Right hand only Shooting at the 5". Lines connect the hits, way off!
Cavalry. Left hand only. Shooting at 7". Lines to the holes.
Back to the Golden Sabers. Left Hand Only. Target was sideways so arrow shows up. Hits are in squares and one must have gone off the paper.
5 rounds Golden Saber 125 grain JHP
Cavalry 158 grain JHP:
Cavalry. the hole with the arrow is a different group.
Here I either got sloppy or it is fatigue. Cavalry again:
Cavalry, Right hand only Shooting at the 5". Lines connect the hits, way off!
Cavalry. Left hand only. Shooting at 7". Lines to the holes.
Back to the Golden Sabers. Left Hand Only. Target was sideways so arrow shows up. Hits are in squares and one must have gone off the paper.
Last edited:
That is super cool. I have already given my oldest daughter my first gun and the other two daughters will get my second and my dad's matching 22 if they show continued interest.
Sounds like your cleaning job has shown positive results. I bet another round or two of that and you will be in good shape.
Remember when you were asking everyone what you should do because you heard it sucks? And you tried it and see that it isn't that bad. See? Everyone else is a wimp. Ha ha.
I am happy to hear this is turning out to be a pretty good find
Yep, i am really liking this gun a lot. Carrying it now with .38 wadcutters. I am thinking to put .357s into my speed strip. Might be a good choice if I ever need a reload. Also, I may fire some more of those American Eagle .357s with the padded glove on, just for kicks, but also to continue verifying good ejection.
One thing about J-frames is the cylinder barely comes out far enough to clear the rounds past the grip. This can lead to a bad habit of weakly ejecting cases, but with the .357s and in any SD situation, one must be ready to bang them out firmly, and to do that with a J-frame, one must carefully hold that cylinder full-stop out away from the gun.
One thing about J-frames is the cylinder barely comes out far enough to clear the rounds past the grip. This can lead to a bad habit of weakly ejecting cases, but with the .357s and in any SD situation, one must be ready to bang them out firmly, and to do that with a J-frame, one must carefully hold that cylinder full-stop out away from the gun.
Very cool sounds like it is back in action. You may need to be picky about our ammo but that's a small price to pay for what you have. I bet if you keep it excrecised with 357 and stay up on vlraning/maintenece, it will come back alive with no problems. You could still send it in when you are comfortable just to get the factory warm and fuzzy
You get as good as you think that you need to be to be comfortable
Yeah, right now if the bad guy is not at bad breath distance it will need to be a mag dump, or more correctly, a cylinder dump. May want the last round of the 5 to be a .357 Magnum for "good luck?"
A 6" group is certainly adequate for a man-sized target, center mass. If he is wearing body armor, need to have better groups for a head shot. I hear there is the Mozambique: 2 to the chest followed by 1 to the head. But I have to be able to consistently replicate a 6" group. Actually, a 2" group is best because under stress it surely will widen out a lot.
Guy who sold me the gun said .357 Magnum is known to be a one-shot man stopper, but the caveat is, you got to be able to place that shot.
I do think I should shoot 4 or 5 cylinders of those rally nasty American Eagles as a better test of case ejection. Those have the most power of any I have shot so will be a good way to test the gun. Besides, I have 1.5 boxes of that stuff and it bugs me having partial boxes on the shelf. Half a box will both test the gun and tidy up my ammo shelf. If it doesn't break the gun, it will help break in the gun!
Last edited:
If you ask 10 people what drill preparedness they need to do, you will get 12 differing answers. What you feel comfortable with and what you need to anticipate is strictly up to you. A well placed 22 can be a man stopper as well. Get comfortable and know your limitations along with those of the gun and you'll be fine. Nothing replaces experience and range timeYeah, right now if the bad guy is not at bad breath distance it will need to be a mag dump, or more correctly, a cylinder dump. May want the last round of the 5 to be a .357 Magnum for "good luck?"
A 6" group is certainly adequate for a man-sized target, center mass. If he is wearing body armor, need to have better groups for a head shot. I hear there is the Mozambique: 2 to the chest followed by 1 to the head. But I have to be able to consistently replicate a 6" group. Actually, a 2" group is best because under stress it surely will widen out a lot.
Guy who sold me the gun said .357 Magnum is known to be a one-shot man stopper, but the caveat is, you got to be able to place that shot.
I do think I should shoot 4 or 5 cylinders of those rally nasty American Eagles as a better test of case ejection. Those have the most power of any I have shot so will be a good way to test the gun. Besides, I have 1.5 boxes of that stuff and it bugs me having partial boxes on the shelf. Half a box will both test the gun and tidy up my ammo shelf. If it doesn't break the gun, it will help break in the gun!
Still may send the gun in since one chamber is about 0.97 mm (~0.38") and the others are about 10.0 mm (~0.394"). My Taurus .357 Magnum has all chambers around 0.97.
So it appears that the 340 PD has four slightly larger chambers and that would explain the expanded brass that then does not fit in the smaller chamber.
Frankly, I don't know if it matters as one normally does not shove empty brass back into a gun. If they continue to eject fine, and do not affect accuracy, it seems like a non-issue. Maybe more of a problem for a reloader with the expanded brass.
So it appears that the 340 PD has four slightly larger chambers and that would explain the expanded brass that then does not fit in the smaller chamber.
Frankly, I don't know if it matters as one normally does not shove empty brass back into a gun. If they continue to eject fine, and do not affect accuracy, it seems like a non-issue. Maybe more of a problem for a reloader with the expanded brass.
