My J-frame Journey

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  • EODFXSTI

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    Dec 14, 2020
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    I don't blame you for the first part though that would not be my go to... Might as well run as many 38 as your heart desires in the meantime

    There is some sort of coating on the titanium so they say. I guess it is kind of finicky and that is the reason you cannot treat Ti cylinders like steel ones.
     

    45sRfun

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    I don't blame you for the first part though that would not be my go to... Might as well run as many 38 as your heart desires in the meantime

    There is some sort of coating on the titanium so they say. I guess it is kind of finicky and that is the reason you cannot treat Ti cylinders like steel ones.
    You are right. In that situation, getting a J-frame back, even an expensive one, will not be the issue or concern. My home defense guns include a Steve (S&W SD9VE) and a Ruger PC9 carbine. I should get more mags for the PC9, like maybe 10 of the 33-round mags and stuff them all full to be prepared. I am in the city so 9mm will suffice around the house IMO.

    Wasn't finding the special cleaning advice for titanium cylinders in the manual as it is not in the cleaning section but in a section for gunsmiths:

    Titanium alloy cylinders weigh approximately 60% of what a similarly sized stainless steel cylinder weighs and yet is able to withstand the same operating pressures. Care and cleaning of the revolver’s titanium alloy cylinder consists of normal gun clean-ing procedures using high quality gun oil and cleaning solvents when necessary. However, under NO circumstances should the cylinder’s chambers (charge holes) or front face be cleaned with an abrasive material such as sand paper, Scotch Brite™, Crocus Cloth, etc. To do so will disrupt its protective surface layer and greatly reduce the cylinder’s service life because of excessive erosion that will take place while firing and will void your revolver’s warranty.
    A brass brush is not abrasive, but I used nylon to be cautious. But some of the residue from firing the gun might prove to be abrasive as it is cleaned out?
     

    EODFXSTI

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    This is interesting but if there is roughness inside my titanium cylinder I cannot polish it out per the note in previous post.
    Yup, it sure sounds like that Ti cylinder requires some babying. None of the typical fixes work since they are recommended for steel. When I searched for a good solvent to use on Ti cylinders, the common theme was stay away from ammonia based cleaners. I do not know if it is in the manual or if some chemist said it but it sure was the consensus.
     

    45sRfun

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    Yup, it sure sounds like that Ti cylinder requires some babying. None of the typical fixes work since they are recommended for steel. When I searched for a good solvent to use on Ti cylinders, the common theme was stay away from ammonia based cleaners. I do not know if it is in the manual or if some chemist said it but it sure was the consensus.
    Thinking what if I chuck the nylon brush into the drill and give it a go? Probably don't want to do it dry though so perhaps a steady stream of CLP as I go.

    I think a brass brush would be okay for manual cleaning but would not do the brass in the drill.
     

    EODFXSTI

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    Thinking what if I chuck the nylon brush into the drill and give it a go? Probably don't want to do it dry though so perhaps a steady stream of CLP as I go.

    I think a brass brush would be okay for manual cleaning but would not do the brass in the drill.
    Whats the worst that would happen? Have you shot it since you gave it a good cleaning a couple days ago?
     

    STEEL CORE

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    Oct 29, 2008
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    My youngest daughter has my old J-frame blued Mdl 36, and my oldest has my old mdl 60.
    The model 60, was already stainless, but a Coastie, out of Washington State, had added a dull grey super rust preventer Thai I guess the Coast Guard used.
    I wish I had kept my Mdl-37 though to today.
     

    45sRfun

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    Whats the worst that would happen? Have you shot it since you gave it a good cleaning a couple days ago?
    Just a couple hours ago. The 340 PD performed well today. Ran 7 cylinders of .357 and only had minor extraction problems on first two cylinders, but once I started giving the ejector a firm smack there was no further extraction problems. Also .357 is not too hard to handle in this light weight gun.
     

    45sRfun

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    Today's range session. Again, all at 5 yards. All 2 hands unless stated otherwise. I used a glove with padding on the right hand. I am not a great shot and my groups worsened as the range session progressed. These are in order of firing. All .357 Magnums.

    5 rounds Golden Saber 125 grain JHP
    1728430764801.png


    Cavalry 158 grain JHP:
    1728430852621.png

    Cavalry. the hole with the arrow is a different group.
    1728431024674.png

    Here I either got sloppy or it is fatigue. Cavalry again:
    1728431114060.png

    Cavalry, Right hand only Shooting at the 5". Lines connect the hits, way off!
    1728431204248.png

    Cavalry. Left hand only. Shooting at 7". Lines to the holes.
    1728431318229.png

    Back to the Golden Sabers. Left Hand Only. Target was sideways so arrow shows up. Hits are in squares and one must have gone off the paper.
    1728431445762.png
     
    Last edited:

    EODFXSTI

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    Dec 14, 2020
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    Morgan County
    My youngest daughter has my old J-frame blued Mdl 36, and my oldest has my old mdl 60.
    The model 60, was already stainless, but a Coastie, out of Washington State, had added a dull grey super rust preventer Thai I guess the Coast Guard used.
    I wish I had kept my Mdl-37 though to today.
    That is super cool. I have already given my oldest daughter my first gun and the other two daughters will get my second and my dad's matching 22 if they show continued interest.
     

    EODFXSTI

    Marksman
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    3   0   0
    Dec 14, 2020
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    Morgan County
    Just a couple hours ago. The 340 PD performed well today. Ran 7 cylinders of .357 and only had minor extraction problems on first two cylinders, but once I started giving the ejector a firm smack there was no further extraction problems. Also .357 is not too hard to handle in this light weight gun.
    Sounds like your cleaning job has shown positive results. I bet another round or two of that and you will be in good shape.

    Remember when you were asking everyone what you should do because you heard it sucks? And you tried it and see that it isn't that bad. See? Everyone else is a wimp. Ha ha.

    I am happy to hear this is turning out to be a pretty good find
     

    45sRfun

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    Yep, i am really liking this gun a lot. Carrying it now with .38 wadcutters. I am thinking to put .357s into my speed strip. Might be a good choice if I ever need a reload. Also, I may fire some more of those American Eagle .357s with the padded glove on, just for kicks, but also to continue verifying good ejection.

    One thing about J-frames is the cylinder barely comes out far enough to clear the rounds past the grip. This can lead to a bad habit of weakly ejecting cases, but with the .357s and in any SD situation, one must be ready to bang them out firmly, and to do that with a J-frame, one must carefully hold that cylinder full-stop out away from the gun.
     

    EODFXSTI

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    Dec 14, 2020
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    Morgan County
    Very cool sounds like it is back in action. You may need to be picky about our ammo but that's a small price to pay for what you have. I bet if you keep it excrecised with 357 and stay up on vlraning/maintenece, it will come back alive with no problems. You could still send it in when you are comfortable just to get the factory warm and fuzzy
     
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