Chamfered cylinder throats on wheel guns.

[flightsimmer]

A few decades back I had a Dan Wesson Pistol Pack in of course. 357 Magnum.
It was a bit of a chore to load the cylinders because of the sharp edge at the entrance. So I carefully beveled the throats with a Dremel, ball stone if I remember correctly and that took care of the problem.
Now fast forward to today's Speed loaders and Moon clips.
I guess I could ask the man himself, but I saw a video of Jerry Miculek where he fires 12 rounds with a speed reload in under something like 2 or 3 seconds AND, hits all of the targets, absolutely amazing.
Anyway, I'm wondering if he treats his cylinder throats in a special way because he seems to just drop them in.
Anyone know for sure?

 

[flightsimmer]

I did find a link on YouTube that shows the proper way to do it.
I lost the link, I'll try to find it again.

 

[Bosshoss]

Jerry definitely chamfers his cylinders.
Speedloader guns don't chamfer the extractor star just the cylinder.
Moonclip guns you can chamfer both the star and the cylinder.
Several ways to do it, I use a 45 degree cutter and pilot for the caliber.
Moonclips and round nose bullets are the fastest for fast reloads and LOTS of practice.

 

[Bosshoss]

After watching that video while it is MOSTLY OK. (you tube has been great for business for gunsmiths) It is not done correctly.
NEVER chamfer the extractor star on a speedloader revolver.
It is ok to lightly break the edge of the star but DO NOT chamfer it.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I agree, don't chamfer the extractor on a non moonclip gun.

You weaken and reduce the contact surface, the extractor can jump the case on extraction.

 

[flightsimmer]

My current use would be on 2, 10mm revolers, a Ruger, GP-100 MATCH Champion and a S&W 610.

I can see why you wouldn't want to chamfer the extracter star for rimmed cartridge speed loaders but since these revolvers will only use Moon clips I don't see that it would matter, am I right?

 

[Bosshoss]

Your 10mm would be fine to chamfer the whole chamber.
Some moonclip guns like 627's and some 686+ can shoot with or without moonclips those can be chamfered but not as deep due to Rim needing support when shooting without moonclips. Also I don't do very much to the star on those guns that shoot with or without moonclips.
Actually chamfering the cylinder is all that is required. I have lots of customers (competition shooters) that can't tell any difference between a gun that has the cylinder and star chamfered and one with just a cylinder chamfered on moonclip guns.

 

[WhitleyStu]

My Bosshoss tuned 686 PC cylinder which functions perfect with speed loaders.

 

[flightsimmer]

My Bosshoss tuned 686 PC cylinder which functions perfect with speed loaders.View attachment 209137View attachment 209138

What cartridge does that shoot? It looks bigger than .357, is it 44 special? It must be a rimmed cartridge.

 

[WhitleyStu]

What cartridge does that shoot? It looks bigger than .357, is it 44 special? It must be a rimmed cartridge.

.38/.357

 

[flightsimmer]

I checked Brownell's Web site and they list the cutting tool but their out of stock on almost everything it looks like.

I don't know what the chances are that a local smith would have one in 10mm?

 

[flightsimmer]

Maybe someone here on the Gunsmith forum would know?

 

[flightsimmer]

Brownell's didn't have the chamfering tool in stock so I contacted their supplier and I should have the set for 10mm in a couple of weeks.

 

[Drail]

.45 ACP in full moon clips have a huge "wiggle factor" so that the rounds can just about self align if you get the clip reasonably close to being lined up with the cylinder. Jerry Miculek actually showed me how he does his reload. He said "just hold the clip about an inch above the cylinder and throw it at the cylinder - it will drop right in. I know it sounds crazy but it works." So I tried it with my 625 - he was right. The less you try to line everything up the easier it drops right in. Rimmed clipped cartridges do not wiggle like .45 ACP and you need to align them very close to get them in the holes. Regarding chamfering the charge holes - notice the chamfer is cut only on the cylinder on that factory gun - not on the extractor - you can cut a slight chamfer but leave most of it as manufactured or you'll see extraction issues. The extractor needs to remain the way the factory machined it for reliable extraction when you are in a hurry (like in a match). You really need a mill to make those chamfer cuts precisely and keep them concentric with the holes.

 

[flightsimmer]

I received the chamfering cutter and discovered that it is too large in diameter.
It hits the rachets that the hand uses to turn the cylinder, so the cutter is unusable and I had to send it back.

Now there is a restocking fee of 15%, okay, but the kicker is that they don't refund my money. Instead they issue me a credit for future purchases. So I just lost $105.00

Now I found and ordered several different Dremel 1/2" diameter grind stones and picked the one that I thought would do the best job and chucked it up in my variable speed drill motor. Then I inserted 5 spent cartridges to maintain alignment of the extracter and carefully chamfered each charging hole, and it worked great.
Not too much, just enought to remove the sharp edge. Now the moon clips drop right in.
Oh, on the non rimmed cartridges that use moon clips, it doesn't matter if you chamfer the extractor.

Total cost was around $125.00 but that's life.