Do you have a source? I don't believe that to be true.Anderson makes the lowers and uppers for Spikes. The difference is the logo.
Do you have a source? I don't believe that to be true.Anderson makes the lowers and uppers for Spikes. The difference is the logo.
I have an Aero and a PSA, and they both work perfect. Lowers are lowers...don't worry about it.
If there is play between the upper and lower, then that is perfectly normal. This does not affect accuracy at all. If you have a tight upper and receiver fit, it will loosen up over time if you actually shoot it.
Do you have a source? I don't believe that to be true.
If you buy any "mil spec" lower it will work just fine.
The spec includes tolerances on all of the machining.
If the tolerances are held there should be no problems whatsoever.
If the tolerances are not held to spec it is defective and not to "mil spec".
The only differences between "mil spec" parts should be cosmetic.
I have seen guys on youtube machine 80% lowers on a cheap drill press with a plastic fixture that work perfect.
Do you have a source? I don't believe that to be true.
Let me take this is another direction...
What is the difference between a "multi" lower and one with a specific caliber markings? I mean, I understand one can be used for any caliber while one is limited, but what is it about the shape/size/other in the lower that limits its use?
Until you build an AR with a billet lower, you don't know what you're missing.
My first billet lower was a Seekins and the machining and fit and finish sold me on them. It was beautiful. Then I went with a Mega upper-lower set, POF P308 lower, and my P415 has a billet lower.
Yes they're more expensive but it's one of those things that until you try one, you shouldn't dog them because of the cost.
I have forged lower ARs too, but my preference by far is billet. I love the machining. Some people pay more for fancy wood on bolt actions....some pay more for perfect machining.
Lowers are only "lowers" when the holes are in the right spots. That doesn't always happen
can you elucidate on exactly what I'm missing? I'm not interested in paying a bunch extra for how it looks (in fact I paid extra for it to look bad because it's a colt. ) . Does a billet offer better reliability of accuracy?
As long as the parts fit its gtg. Billet to me is a waste of money but your gun is not my gun and that is ok.
So, why buy anything else than a Savage Axis or a Remington 770? Anything else would be a waste of money because they would all produce acceptable results and would work. So why spend more? Wouldn't dropping $500, $700, $1000 in a rifle (pre optic) that you wouldn't shoot past 150 yards be a complete waste of money?
Let's compare deer rifles for a second.
Minute of deer heart at 150 yards, any modern center fire rifle should be capable of shooting 3" groups at 150 yards.
So, why buy anything else than a Savage Axis or a Remington 770? Anything else would be a waste of money because they would all produce acceptable results and would work. So why spend more? Wouldn't dropping $500, $700, $1000 in a rifle (pre optic) that you wouldn't shoot past 150 yards be a complete waste of money?