It's been a long time, but I think it was a 5.5mm for the ign mod. Ford likes throwing those little screws on stuff just to aggravate people.If I remember right the module could be tricky to get a socket on, odd size maybe? Been to many years for me.
I seem to remember the snap on guy always trying to sell me a special wrench or socket for it. I don't remember ever buying it so it must of been doable without whatever it was. You know them truck guys.It's been a long time, but I think it was a 5.5mm for the ign mod. Ford likes throwing those little screws on stuff just to aggravate people.
And yes if you replace it the plate surfaces where the module and distributor mate needs a good thorough coating of dielectric grease.
It's super weird that it will work the first time the battery is reconnected, then die and not restart.
I tried looking for the old thread that I found 5 years ago, but no luck last night.
I'm gonna check spark tonight and maybe throw some fuel in it, just to make sure it wasn't guzzling fuel. My gauge doesn't work, so I have no idea how much is actually in there. Been 107 miles since my last fill up and it usually gets 15mpg or better, so I should still have a couple gallons left. Who knows.
BT is the "MAN"The Official Hot Rod Thread
Hopefully this is Part I of many more to come. I've always enjoyed the rich population of gearheads on INGO. The V-10 Gasser thread inspired me to start this out. I want this to be a place where we all swap stories and pics and questions and speed parts. I want to see the project cars and...www.indianagunowners.com
Thoughts after a drive.I don't know why it wouldn't run earlier. I put fuel in it, it took a couple tries but finally got itself together.
Still vibrates. I'm gonna go drive it for a bit and see if I can nail down a better description, but this is my current thoughts.
Starts to vibrate at 4000. Gets harsh at 4500. Is almost gone by 5k.
Seems to be worse as I go to higher gears, but I haven't been able to really get after it just yet.
Definitely hit that universal with some grease. As far as the trans stuff, I got nothing. You also mentioned the input shaft, how did that turn out? Depressing the clutch changes nothing? Does it go away once the rpm's go over a certain point or does it just continually get worse?Thoughts after a drive.
It definitely still does it at 3500rpm.
It DOES seem more smooth.
There's a driveshaft vibration at about 65/70.
I am wondering 2 things:
1 - could I have not loaded the output shaft bearing enough, so the driveshaft vibration is feeding into the transmission at certain RPMs? Let's be real - we're way outside of normal thinking at this point. It's a wild guess. Hell, it could just be that the driveshaft is jacked and that's why it vibrates.
2 - the front yoke felt fine when I had the driveshaft out of the car. The rear yoke had a little stiffness on one axis. I noticed it has a grease fitting. Any chance I pump that sucker with some grease and it fixes it?
If not, I'll swap the joint when I get home this weekend. Now that I have a press, I don't mind doing them. I don't wanna take it back to Indy Rack and Axle right now. It was there... Last year maybe? Which ticks me off a little.
EDIT - if anyone wants to come drive it and experience this for themselves, by all means come on down. Basically at County Line and 37. I'd be more than happy to give some rides and let someone drive. This is truly an experience you have to see to believe.
Will do. Letting the car cool down and might hit it tonight.Definitely hit that universal with some grease. As far as the trans stuff, I got nothing. You also mentioned the input shaft, how did that turn out? Depressing the clutch changes nothing? Does it go away once the rpm's go over a certain point or does it just continually get worse?
Did you end up running it with the trans removed?Will do. Letting the car cool down and might hit it tonight.
Input shaft is just more stiff. Now vertical or lateral movement. There was a smidge of movement before.
Depressing the clutch changes nothing. I did notice a change with this scenario:
Driving along at say 40, push in the clutch, rev to 4500, the vibration seems a touch more harsh than when I'm sitting still doing the same thing.
It seems to get better at 5k? It is a little hard to tell because I'm so far up there in rpm. Lot of stuff going on. 4500 seems to be the worst point, then it gets a little better the higher up I go.
Yeah. And I was an idiot and pushed the clutch in, so the clutch probably fell down and made everything off balance. Then I put the input shaft in to guide the clutch back into place.Did you end up running it with the trans removed?
So rack & axle put a U joint in it about a year ago. But if I understand correctly it had this vibration before that correct?Thoughts after a drive.
It definitely still does it at 3500rpm.
It DOES seem more smooth.
There's a driveshaft vibration at about 65/70.
I am wondering 2 things:
1 - could I have not loaded the output shaft bearing enough, so the driveshaft vibration is feeding into the transmission at certain RPMs? Let's be real - we're way outside of normal thinking at this point. It's a wild guess. Hell, it could just be that the driveshaft is jacked and that's why it vibrates.
2 - the front yoke felt fine when I had the driveshaft out of the car. The rear yoke had a little stiffness on one axis. I noticed it has a grease fitting. Any chance I pump that sucker with some grease and it fixes it?
If not, I'll swap the joint when I get home this weekend. Now that I have a press, I don't mind doing them. I don't wanna take it back to Indy Rack and Axle right now. It was there... Last year maybe? Which ticks me off a little.
EDIT - if anyone wants to come drive it and experience this for themselves, by all means come on down. Basically at County Line and 37. I'd be more than happy to give some rides and let someone drive. This is truly an experience you have to see to believe.
Hopefully the grease gets that fitting going fine again. I am going to rotate the driveshaft around on the pumpkin side to see if maybe that's part of it, too.So rack & axle put a U joint in it about a year ago. But if I understand correctly it had this vibration before that correct?
Back in like 97 I had them do a U joint on a pick up I had. Took the truck camping down at Clifty Falls a couple days later and it developed a vibration over 0mph that would just about rattle your teeth out. Slow rolled it home and my uncle took it to work and checked it out. Come to find out when they replaced the U joint, some needle bearings fell out when they had the caps off and it threw the driveshaft out of balance. Not saying they screwed up on yours. But since it has a grease fitting, definitely shoot some in there and see what happens
I'm almost out of ideas. What about bushings for the rear upper control arms? If those are shot maybe the rear is floppy D!€£ing around giving a vibration back through the drivetrain?? Just spit balling
I got nothing on any transmission thoughts that's out of my wheelhouse.
Front or rear. Just use the thread. Many minds make for strong discussions.Any you guys good at setting up a Dana 30 axle? If so, let me know and I can PM you instead of drifting the thread. I have run into something with mine that isn't matching the FSM for the vehicle. It's either the FSM is incorrect, someone was into the diff before me and screwed it up or I'm looking at it wrong.
I know you don't want to hear this, but the engine is most likely shaking like a baby passing a golf ball. You have addressed everything else possible.Hopefully the grease gets that fitting going fine again. I am going to rotate the driveshaft around on the pumpkin side to see if maybe that's part of it, too.
I don't have rear upper control arms anymore
Rear suspension is a full Maximum Motorsports panhard bar, torque arm, and their rear lower control arms, the ones with a poly bushing in the front and spherical bushing in the back. And I did all of that work in the time span that this vibration has existed.
I've kind of already decided I'm just going to use the Mountaineer 302 at this point. If it blows up, it blows up. I'll figure out a replacement before it goes.I know you don't want to hear this, but the engine is most likely shaking like a baby passing a golf ball. You have addressed everything else possible.
Are the SB fords internally or externally balanced...???I've kind of already decided I'm just going to use the Mountaineer 302 at this point. If it blows up, it blows up. I'll figure out a replacement before it goes.
However, the offer still stands - if someone wants to experience this thing, it's gonna take me a week or so to get the Mountaineer motor ready and in, so I'm happy to let y'all drive it.
CM - any thoughts on what would be wrong with the motor, causing it to shake like this?
Uh, externally? Cause I have to buy a balancer and flywheel that uses the same balance or else it causes problems.Are the SB fords internally or externally balanced...???