The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[Jaybird1980]

I'm just not a beer guy.... unless it comes from a keg. For whatever reason, cold keg beer is great.
Any other beer you give me will go bad or get shotgunned.

Oh yeah, cold draft is always better than canned or bottled.

Good luck.

 

[churchmouse]

Ohhhhhh that's interesting. I didn't realize that when looking at the Tri-5 stuff.
Yup, this DOES have a crossmember haha.

Thats so easy to do as most folks (and seriously most folks) have never been under an Original Tri-5 to see how it mounts up. The front mounts are actually on the front of the engine. The 4 holes for them existed on SB chevys well into the 70's but were not used for anything since the mounts were put on the side of the block.

 

[churchmouse]

Oh yeah, cold draft is always better than canned or bottled.

Good luck.

 

[thunderchicken]

Uh....hey dude done call me a hill billy...

I am/was and always will be the king of bailing wire. It has gotten me home many times.

Hey deep down we're all a little bit hillbilly...some just more so than others lol

 

[femurphy77]

If you do pull the trans out again can you pull the clutch/pp and reinstall the trans and run it like that? That'd give you the 3rd mounting point. It's just a T5, not like it's a top loader or a rock crusher with a cast iron case. Just a little aluminum trans, can't be that heavy!

 

[jeffsqartan]

If you do pull the trans out again can you pull the clutch/pp and reinstall the trans and run it like that? That'd give you the 3rd mounting point. It's just a T5, not like it's a top loader or a rock crusher with a cast iron case. Just a little aluminum trans, can't be that heavy!

I bench press these things with one arm....
No really, this is nothing compared to the NV4500 from my Dodge or the 5r110 that's in my Ford haha.

So leave the input shaft in, but pop out the pilot bearing and remove the clutch?
Yeah, I don't really see why not. It's worth trying. I wanna get this figured out.

Note - mountaineer is finally gone, along with a bunch of other scrap I was tired of screwing with. Gotta clean the floors and get the vert back in the garage.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Heck, I'll even take it a step further. I'll pull the drive shaft first. Test. Then the exhaust. Test. Then the clutch and pilot bearing. Test. Then the transmission. We'll walk this thing alllllll the way back until I narrow down exactly what it is.

 

[churchmouse]

I bench press these things with one arm....
No really, this is nothing compared to the NV4500 from my Dodge or the 5r110 that's in my Ford haha.

So leave the input shaft in, but pop out the pilot bearing and remove the clutch?
Yeah, I don't really see why not. It's worth trying. I wanna get this figured out.

Note - mountaineer is finally gone, along with a bunch of other scrap I was tired of screwing with. Gotta clean the floors and get the vert back in the garage.

Leave the bushing in the crank.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Leave the bushing in the crank.

Should the final test be to remove the input shaft so that the only part of the trans touching the engine is the bellhousing?

 

[churchmouse]

Should the final test be to remove the input shaft so that the only part of the trans touching the engine is the bellhousing?

Man, I would hope not. That just does not seem right in my mind. But again, we are isolated by our Internet connections.
I would hope it is exposed before this would have to be done.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Man, I would hope not. That just does not seem right in my mind. But again, we are isolated by our Internet connections.
I would hope it is exposed before this would have to be done.

Well, that's why I'm gonna break it down kind of in order.

And to be fair, every time I have brought this vibration up, over a 4-5 year period, this is what happens in every group. I get a ton of suggestions and only get to try a few out.

Well I'm at a point where I can finally do it all. So I'm gonna do it all lmao.

 

[thunderchicken]

Well, that's why I'm gonna break it down kind of in order.

And to be fair, every time I have brought this vibration up, over a 4-5 year period, this is what happens in every group. I get a ton of suggestions and only get to try a few out.

Well I'm at a point where I can finally do it all. So I'm gonna do it all lmao.

Maybe I didn't catch it until now, but you've been chasing this for 4-5yrs?

Hopefully you'll be able to isolate the source

 

[jeffsqartan]

Maybe I didn't catch it until now, but you've been chasing this for 4-5yrs?

Hopefully you'll be able to isolate the source

It started about 5 years ago. I started with the Balancer. Then the engine mounts. Transmission mounts. Drive shaft rebalance. Transmission rebuild. New clutch. Rear end rebuild.

I think I did the clutch like... 2 or 3 years ago? After that, I honestly gave up. But now I've got the will and ability to finally do some cool stuff if I can just fix this thing. It will be fixed one way or another haha. I'll replace the engine and trans if I have to!

 

[femurphy77]

Haven't really been giving the exhaust on the racecar any thought lately because it's not been really high on the priority list. Since there is a fairly decent probability that the car may be able to run soon. I've been giving it some thought recently and with the rear suspension links in place the mufflers no longer are able to live under the back seat humps. With the subframe connectors in the way getting from the headers out from under the car is problematic. Of course, I could raise the car up into the realm of some of the 4 wheel drives you see running around but the intention is to keep it as low as I can without impairing the suspension travel to the point of binding thru normal range of motion while on course.

I've pretty much decided that the only way to do it is routing the exhaust up into the back seat area install the mufflers there and have them exit out the body in the area where the brake scoop is on the right side of the 66 Shelbys.

I'm using 3" aluminized straight tubing and mandrel bends and will tack it all in place above the floor line but want to use the big band clamps to join it where it goes thru the floor so I can pull it out when/if necessary. Of course, since I'm going to be cutting thru the floor and probably welding in various tabs and brackets, I guess I'll hold up on painting the under carriage and interior for a few more weeks.

At least I'm starting to work on it again and "MAY" actually have this thing able to move under its' own power soon.

Right now, I'm looking at putting the mufflers on top of the hump, bring the pipes up thru the floor behind the driver's seat and then work the exhaust thru/around the cage tubes to bring it out the right side.

 

[churchmouse]

Haven't really been giving the exhaust on the racecar any thought lately because it's not been really high on the priority list. Since there is a fairly decent probability that the car may be able to run soon. I've been giving it some thought recently and with the rear suspension links in place the mufflers no longer are able to live under the back seat humps. With the subframe connectors in the way getting from the headers out from under the car is problematic. Of course, I could raise the car up into the realm of some of the 4 wheel drives you see running around but the intention is to keep it as low as I can without impairing the suspension travel to the point of binding thru normal range of motion while on course.

I've pretty much decided that the only way to do it is routing the exhaust up into the back seat area install the mufflers there and have them exit out the body in the area where the brake scoop is on the right side of the 66 Shelbys.

I'm using 3" aluminized straight tubing and mandrel bends and will tack it all in place above the floor line but want to use the big band clamps to join it where it goes thru the floor so I can pull it out when/if necessary. Of course, since I'm going to be cutting thru the floor and probably welding in various tabs and brackets, I guess I'll hold up on painting the under carriage and interior for a few more weeks.

At least I'm starting to work on it again and "MAY" actually have this thing able to move under its' own power soon.

Right now, I'm looking at putting the mufflers on top of the hump, bring the pipes up thru the floor behind the driver's seat and then work the exhaust thru/around the cage tubes to bring it out the right side.

View attachment 199037

Heat...?????

 

[femurphy77]

Heat...?????

I'll put up an insulated bulkhead across the main tubes of the cage and between the crossbar at my shoulder level to the rear package tray. The tubes won't come into the passenger area in front of the bulkead.

 

[Bigtanker]

Are you going to stick with the FlowMasters?

 

[femurphy77]

Are you going to stick with the FlowMasters?

I'm a FlowMaster fan. I started running them when you could no longer get REAL Corvair turbo mufflers and never looked back.

 

[Bigtanker]

I'm a FlowMaster fan. I started running them when you could no longer get REAL Corvair turbo mufflers and never looked back.

I'm a big fan of them too. They have such a unique sound and I really really like it.

But I have seen a few chassis dyno comparisons where other mufflers out preform them fairly handily.

 

[femurphy77]

I'm a big fan of them too. They have such a unique sound and I really really like it.

But I have seen a few chassis dyno comparisons where other mufflers out preform them fairly handily.

Yeah I've seen those but if I were looking for horsepower I'd put an LS in it!

Flowmasters have such a unique sound to them that even drive thru kids at McDonalds recognize them when you roll up.