The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 3: Money Pit Anonymous

[ChristianPatriot]

I really can't remember what I set the timing at. I wanna say 13 or 14. I can obviously check it.
But I was looking around to see if I could find out what the max is most likely going to be. I'm seeing anything from 14-18* is maxed out on a 302, even with 93.
Should I drain the rest of the tank into a bucket, filler up with premium, and bump the timing a couple degrees at a time until it pings? And when it pings, will it ping during the initial set, or should I take it out and run it up in RPM to listen for pinging?

From the tests I’ve seen, there’s not a huge horsepower difference between say 32 degrees total timing and like 38-40 degrees, but 38+ definitely puts the engine in more danger.

 

[churchmouse]

From the tests I’ve seen, there’s not a huge horsepower difference between say 32 degrees total timing and like 38-40 degrees, but 38+ definitely puts the engine in more danger.

With cheap fuel yes it does. Buy your premium at a known brand station.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I always buy fuel from the Shell around the corner by my house. Then again, we move two weeks and it likely won't be where I go every time.
Now that I think about it, there's a Shell around the corner from that house, too lol

But for figuring out how far is too far, do I load it up with premium, advance the timing two degrees, test drive with foot to the floor and listen for noise? Keep going until it pings then back it down two degrees?

 

[ChristianPatriot]

I always buy fuel from the Shell around the corner by my house. Then again, we move two weeks and it likely won't be where I go every time.
Now that I think about it, there's a Shell around the corner from that house, too lol

But for figuring out how far is too far, do I load it up with premium, advance the timing two degrees, test drive with foot to the floor and listen for noise? Keep going until it pings then back it down two degrees?

I’d set it at 32-34 and leave it. You’re not going to gain enough power to be worth the risk beyond that.

 

[churchmouse]

I’d set it at 32-34 and leave it. You’re not going to gain enough power to be worth the risk beyond that.

No but you will gain some zip off the get go. All depends on what you are doing. Long track no. The gains are not worth the risk. What he does, maybe. Hard to say without actually doing it.

As to your fuel, If the station you find is owned by questionable people be careful. It is not uncommon for them to either dump crap mid grad or regular in the premium tank. Some **** bird locals were busted running a garden hose in the tanks to boost the profit.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I’d set it at 32-34 and leave it. You’re not going to gain enough power to be worth the risk beyond that.

Well hold up, I'm on EFI. So from what I'm told, I pull the spout connector and set base timing, then the comp adds timing to that. I'm having a rough time finding what the exact timing advance *should* be, assuming there isn't a tune or something in it to begin with.

 

[churchmouse]

Well hold up, I'm on EFI. So from what I'm told, I pull the spout connector and set base timing, then the comp adds timing to that. I'm having a rough time finding what the exact timing advance *should* be, assuming there isn't a tune or something in it to begin with.

Freaking ECU's ruin all the fun.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Well hold up, I'm on EFI. So from what I'm told, I pull the spout connector and set base timing, then the comp adds timing to that. I'm having a rough time finding what the exact timing advance *should* be, assuming there isn't a tune or something in it to begin with.

I’m not up on the 5.0 game. I thought they still had traditional distributors.

 

[femurphy77]

Well hold up, I'm on EFI. So from what I'm told, I pull the spout connector and set base timing, then the comp adds timing to that. I'm having a rough time finding what the exact timing advance *should* be, assuming there isn't a tune or something in it to begin with.

Freaking ECU's ruin all the fun.

I "believe" you can still bump the timing. The ECU has limits like anything else. Mark your distributor so you can return it to its current setting without a light and then start bumping it up and taking it for a test spin. I've set our GT to run on pump premium using that method and it works ok for the overweight non-performance touring car it really is. I can damn sure tell when the wife screwed up and put regular in it one time though, it rattled like a damn diesel just pulling out of the driveway that day.

If you have a half tank of fuel top it off with the good stuff that several stations sell for "off road use only" and then drop back to standard pump premium as you refill it.

How much is the race gas they're selling at various stations around town now? Last time I bought any it was $5/gallon but that's been 20-22 years ago!

 

[jeffsqartan]

They do have standard distributors, but the ECU still manages the advance timing. I can't adjust that without a tuner. Until then, I can adjust base timing, which should affect advance. I understand the process of adjusting timing, just not the process of how far is too far, ya know?
Good idea on marking the distributor, in case somehow regular gas gets mixed in I can easily bump it down for awhile.

I honestly forgot that some stations sell race gas. I've not seen any lately. Not sure where I'd get it at.

 

[churchmouse]

They do have standard distributors, but the ECU still manages the advance timing. I can't adjust that without a tuner. Until then, I can adjust base timing, which should affect advance. I understand the process of adjusting timing, just not the process of how far is too far, ya know?
Good idea on marking the distributor, in case somehow regular gas gets mixed in I can easily bump it down for awhile.

I honestly forgot that some stations sell race gas. I've not seen any lately. Not sure where I'd get it at.

I have no idea where you live. Jackson oil sells it. The speedway out by raceway sells it. Raceway park sells VP fuel.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I live in Greenwood. Currently off of Smith Valley where it turns into Emerson (over by Main Street exit from 65).
New house is over by 37, in between County Line and Fairview.

 

[femurphy77]

Well hold up, I'm on EFI. So from what I'm told, I pull the spout connector and set base timing, then the comp adds timing to that. I'm having a rough time finding what the exact timing advance *should* be, assuming there isn't a tune or something in it to begin with.

Timing should be just shy of death rattle on the gas you'll be using.

I live in Greenwood. Currently off of Smith Valley where it turns into Emerson (over by Main Street exit from 65).
New house is over by 37, in between County Line and Fairview.

Speedway at 37 and Smith Valley sells it. I must drive right by you a couple of times a day to and from work!

Edit: I see we still need to manually uncheck quotes otherwise it keeps getting requoted.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Timing should be just shy of death rattle on the gas you'll be using.

And I can find the rattle by flooring it on the test drive? Or will it rattle at idle while setting timing?

Speedway at 37 and Smith Valley sells it. I must drive right by you a couple of times a day to and from work!

Right on that's not far from the new house. My current house is in Valle Vista. Right off hole #2 on the course lol

 

[femurphy77]

And I can find the rattle by flooring it on the test drive? Or will it rattle at idle while setting timing?



Right on that's not far from the new house. My current house is in Valle Vista. Right off hole #2 on the course lol

It'll be on acceleration, gradually work towards it because you don't want to tear anything up but it works. Bump it up a degree or two at a time until you get the noise then back it off a degree or two. It's all pretty much by ear unless you break out the light. Sorry, don't remember if the spout has to be off but I believe it does otherwise the computer takes over and negates the changes at idle.

Damn I've been out of it too long. I may need to head to Columbus this weekend to get a with of tire rubber and race fuel.

 

[thunderchicken]

I have no idea where you live. Jackson oil sells it. The speedway out by raceway sells it. Raceway park sells VP fuel.

Where abouts do you live? Gas station onbthe corner of Arlington & Brookville Rd sells Cam2 (right by Speedrome). Automotion (on Troy between Shelby St & Madison Ave) sells has a few fuel options from VP fuels and will order whatever you want.

Ooops should have quoted Jeff

 

[jeffsqartan]

Yeah I live in Greenwood but roll around all over the place lol. As far south as Franklin/Trafalgar, as far north as Carmel, as far west as Terre Haute, and as far east as... Greenwood. I don't go east all that much lol

 

[churchmouse]

It'll be on acceleration, gradually work towards it because you don't want to tear anything up but it works. Bump it up a degree or two at a time until you get the noise then back it off a degree or two. It's all pretty much by ear unless you break out the light. Sorry, don't remember if the spout has to be off but I believe it does otherwise the computer takes over and negates the changes at idle.

Damn I've been out of it too long. I may need to head to Columbus this weekend to get a with of tire rubber and race fuel.

If it has an ECU there should be a knock sensor on the block somewhere. That takes timing out when it senses death rattle or is that only a GM thing.

 

[churchmouse]

Where abouts do you live? Gas station onbthe corner of Arlington & Brookville Rd sells Cam2 (right by Speedrome). Automotion (on Troy between Shelby St & Madison Ave) sells has a few fuel options from VP fuels and will order whatever you want.

Ooops should have quoted Jeff

Me.....I live in the state of confusion and the county of WTF.

 

[jeffsqartan]

If it has an ECU there should be a knock sensor on the block somewhere. That takes timing out when it senses death rattle or is that only a GM thing.

Methinks that is a GM thing. I've never seen a knock sensor for this car.

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