I've tried that. . . .they aren't worth a lot. I don't have any grandkids but I'm bettin' they're worth a LOT more!!
Got a notification that the x-pipe was delivered today
Got it all bolted on. If I ever win the lottery, which isn't likely because I don't play, I will absolutely buy a car lift.
I say the same thing. I would love to have a lift at home. Only down side would be my family would expect me to work on more of their stuff
Got it all bolted on. If I ever win the lottery, which isn't likely because I don't play, I will absolutely buy a car lift.
It's a pretty bad machine but it has too many doors.
On drag radials too.
I read an intsresting article on the differences in launching a radial vs a true slick. Real interesting. I'll see if I can find it.
On drag radials too.
I read an intsresting article on the differences in launching a radial vs a true slick. Real interesting. I'll see if I can find it.
Slicks are meant to wrinkle, and grow even with stiff sidewalls. The stiff sidewall is only stiff in part of the sidewall closest to the bead to allow the tire to wrinkle and grow.
Drag Radials have a completely different construction. They don't wrinkle and they will not grow as the tire spins.
Now, a slick tire is designed to have some wheel speed (controlled spin) on launch. As the car moves forward and speed increases the tire grows and deforms as its bite increases. If the tire gets too much wheel speed it will start cupping in the middle and will leave a distinct "waddling" or "paddling" pattern on the track. You want some wadding pattern but too much leads to tire shake. Tire shake occurs when the bite, wheel speed causes the tires to spin and deform to the point they become out of balance.
Drag Radials do not like wheel speed at all. They need the track to be much stickier because they are designed to dead hook (no spin, no wrinkle). To make a radial work you have to have the stickier track, and manage the power by applying it differently. Mostly that is done by using a completely different style shock and spring set up. Usually a longer shock/spring.
If you look at a drag radial car as it leaves the line the nose should be down and the rear end has to seperate from the chassis and raise the back of the car. Looking at a slick tire car the nose is up and the rear end is down. They have to be tuned so the slick tire car transfers weight to the rear and a radial needs weight to essentially transfer to the nose or else it will cause huge wheel stands and bad things happen. I know that's a lot and it gets deeper and murkier but that is the basics