Some idiot put 60+-70+lbs air in wife's tires!

[eldirector]

a) I've been torquing lugs on aluminum rims, and just running them down with the impact on steel. Never had an issue, so I'll claim it is working.

b) Discount tire insists on filling tires to the door jamb sticker's number. Can't convince them otherwise.

c) I've been using the "chalk test" to set pressure on my Jeeps. Chalk the tread, drive around the 'hood, and then check the tread. Pretty obvious if warn on the center only (over inflated) or all the way across (just right). My Gladiator on wider 35's runs at 32# rather than 37 on the door jamb. Even my wife's JK on stock sized is happier at 34 rather than 37 cold. My old TJ was SUPER light and ran 28# cold in a 32" tire to get the tread flat to the road.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

What are the TPMS sensors set at? Are they set for what the tire says, or what the number on the door jamb (which I never even heard of) says?

 

[ghuns]

People tend to WAY overtighten lugs, either with a gun or by hand. Of our two daily drivers, one requires only 76ft/lbs and the other is 90ft/lbs. It doesn't take that much effort for a grown arsed man to get to 150ft/lbs with a 1/2" breaker bar.

 

[eldirector]

What are the TPMS sensors set at? Are they set for what the tire says, or what the number on the door jamb (which I never even heard of) says?

Factory TPMS is set to door jamb. At least in the Jeeps, it does not set the alarm until about 10 lbs under. Pretty easy to fine-tune within the available range.

I have the programmer in the Gladiator, and reset my TPMS to my preference.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Torquing a fastener dry will reduce the applied clamping force because more of the torque is used to overcome the friction of the dry threads and bolt head. This is why you should always use a lubricant. A dry thread torqued to the same number as a properly lubed one will not have the same clamping force. I think we are saying the same thing, just using different words.

This is not true. There are dry torque specs and wet torque specs.

It is not always use a lubricant. If no lubricant is mentioned for spec it is to be considered a dry torque. The lubricant let's the fastener turn further before it encounters the same resistance, therefore stretching the threads easier.

 

[BiscuitsandGravy]

I would recommend just getting a click type 1/2" torque wrench over the torque sticks. Bad juju.

For all you ugga-dugga fans... https://www.youtube.com/c/TorqueTestChannel/featured

 

[Cameramonkey]

Nobody checks tire pressure anymore. They set level on the machine, put the chuck on the valve, and the machine does the rest. If the machine is wrong this is what you get. If it was one tire I might suspect differently but when all four are the same something uniform occurred.

Proof that if you try to make something idiot proof, an idiot will prove you wrong.

 

[cbhausen]

I won’t name names but his thread reminds me of my dad being sent out onto the track at IMS for an Indy Car tire test with about an extra 20 PSI in each tire because the pressures weren’t lowered to spec after the tires were mounted and the beads seated…

On the out lap leaving the pits he spun and backed the car into the turn 3 wall at over 200 mph (no SAFER barrier yet). The impact was so severe (direct 90 degree angle) the gearbox punched a hole through the wall. The front wishbones folded allowing the front tires to damage the front of each side pod. The instrument panel with gauges fell out into his lap. The carbon fiber tub was also cracked behind the seat from the inertia of dads body coming to a sudden stop against it.

@tbhausen and I got a phone call to come to the shop because dad was dingier than a fruitcake refusing medical treatment so we went there and talked him into a ride to the crash house. Of course he had a concussion and the entire surface of his back was one giant contusion.

The doctors also found out he had an untreated ruptured spleen from a dirt race crash a few years earlier and he was lucky to be alive. One tough SOB our old man was… You don’t see drivers looking like in the attached picture of him after races these days.

Watch those tire pressures, folks!

 

[Mr. Habib]

This is not true. There are dry torque specs and wet torque specs.

It is not always use a lubricant. If no lubricant is mentioned for spec it is to be considered a dry torque. The lubricant let's the fastener turn further before it encounters the same resistance, therefore stretching the threads easier.

This is why you need to need to know the K factor of the lubricant and adjust the torque value accordingly. You are looking for clamping force. Torque is just a way to get there. There are several variables that come into play here. Fastener material, thread pitch, lubricant use and type, cleanliness of the threads, plating to name a few. Most people I've seen don't even know how to properly use their torque wrench correctly!

 

[HoughMade]

I would recommend just getting a click type 1/2" torque wrench over the torque sticks. Bad juju.

For all you ugga-dugga fans... https://www.youtube.com/c/TorqueTestChannel/featured

What I get from that video is that if you know what you are doing, torque sticks work pretty well.

 

[Jaybird1980]

This is why you need to need to know the K factor of the lubricant and adjust the torque value accordingly. You are looking for clamping force. Torque is just a way to get there. There are several variables that come into play here. Fastener material, thread pitch, lubricant use and type, cleanliness of the threads, plating to name a few. Most people I've seen don't even know how to properly use their torque wrench correctly!

I know plenty about fastener material, pitch, cleanliness and different ways to torque a fastener, class of fit etc.

That still does not make always use lubricant a true statement. There are specs to follow for a reason, whether it's torque angle, in pd, foot pd or nm.

 

[Kernelkrink]

There are some vehicles especially hybrids and electric cars that actually use higher tire pressure because the tires are designed to have less rolling resistance. Also, in some cases when a tire that's a different load rating is installed it may require a different pressure than what the OEM tire & what the placard in the door jamb says. This can simply be a matter of the original tire was say a Michelin but the replacement is a Tire barn cheapo brand. It's the right size but the speed rating or load range maybe different which is a difference in its construction.
The manufacturer gave a recommended pressure, based on the tires they install and ride quality, fuel mileage etc.
Unfortunately many tires are replaced based on what fits and price. Most people (tire shops included) don't pay attention anything but the size.

This. The tire placard spec guy has no idea what is going to be on the vehicle once the OEM tires are replaced. IIRC, wasn't the major problem with the tires that kept blowing and causing rollovers that prompted the TPMS mandate was due to the tire placard spec being way below the minimum safe inflation for the tires installed? IOW, the tires weren't leaking air and blowing out (what TPMS is supposed to fix) they were purposely underinflated to match the tire placard.

 

[nonobaddog]

I usually give em a little extra torque for the "rust factor".

I've never seen charts for the rust effect on torque to tension for various lug-bolt/lug-stud sizes.

 

[nonobaddog]

Some of the skinniest bicycle tires like pressures up around 130-140 PSI.