S&W 629 Cylinder Won't Open In 2 Spots

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • mikerccie

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Apr 29, 2011
    301
    16
    Indy - North Side
    I have a 6" Stainless 629 in .44 Mag that I really like. On my most recent range trip I noticed that in two of its six positions the cylinder won't open. The cylinder release goes forward but the cylinder is locked up tight. If I fire or cock/release the gun it won't open on the next position either. After a second cock/release the cylinder opens with zero problems.

    Short version - 4 spots fine, 2 spots locked up tight.

    I'll admit to being horrible about cleaning guns - I hate it and am not good at it. This gun has had most of the crud wiped off it during it's lifetime but no detail cleaning.

    Any hints?

    Edited To Add:
    Shipped it to S&W, it arrived there last Friday, got a letter this Monday saying they had it, Tuesday was an email saying it was coming back - it arrived today (Thursday). S&W's paperwork says they replaced the extractor rod and the center pin. It opens and closes like a dream now. I'm hoping it says fixed and I can't think of anything I did to make the original one "go bad".
     
    Last edited:

    gunman41mag

    Shooter
    Rating - 100%
    3   0   0
    Feb 1, 2011
    10,485
    48
    SOUTH of YOU
    I have a 6" Stainless 629 in .44 Mag that I really like. On my most recent range trip I noticed that in two of its six positions the cylinder won't open. The cylinder release goes forward but the cylinder is locked up tight. If I fire or cock/release the gun it won't open on the next position either. After a second cock/release the cylinder opens with zero problems.

    Short version - 4 spots fine, 2 spots locked up tight.

    I'll admit to being horrible about cleaning guns - I hate it and am not good at it. This gun has had most of the crud wiped off it during it's lifetime but no detail cleaning.

    Any hints?

    Send the gun to SMITH & WESSON, they fix it for F R E E
     

    billybob44

    Master
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    392   0   0
    Sep 22, 2010
    3,475
    47
    In the Man Cave
    Most likely causes.

    1. Dirt/crud under the ejector star.
    2. Dirt/crud/lead build up at cyl.+forcing cone.
    3. Loose ejector rod sleeve.
    All involve GOOD cleaning/tightening of parts and can be done by owner or someone who is familiar with S&W operations.
    I would do this, or have someone do before sending the "N" frame off to be repaired..Bill.
     

    mikerccie

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Apr 29, 2011
    301
    16
    Indy - North Side
    1. Dirt/crud under the ejector star.
    2. Dirt/crud/lead build up at cyl.+forcing cone.
    3. Loose ejector rod sleeve.
    All involve GOOD cleaning/tightening of parts and can be done by owner or someone who is familiar with S&W operations.
    I would do this, or have someone do before sending the "N" frame off to be repaired..Bill.

    I just saw a few google articles about the ejector rod being loose - I'll have to find my manual and figure out how to check that.

    Thanks!
     

    billybob44

    Master
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    392   0   0
    Sep 22, 2010
    3,475
    47
    In the Man Cave
    Ejector Rod Loose??

    I just saw a few google articles about the ejector rod being loose - I'll have to find my manual and figure out how to check that.

    Thanks!
    Find an insulator-I use rubber vacuum hose-that will slide over end of ejector rod-that is the metal stem that you push to remove spent cases.
    Install at least 2-I prefer all 6 spent cases into cyl.
    Tighten rod sleeve with pliers, being careful not to cut through insulator placed on end of rod. REMEMBER--LEFT HANDED threads on rod==to tighten turn to the LEFT/CONTER-CLOCKWISE.
    Try to avoid damage to rod sleeve with pliers. Bill.
     

    mikerccie

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Apr 29, 2011
    301
    16
    Indy - North Side
    Find an insulator-I use rubber vacuum hose-that will slide over end of ejector rod-that is the metal stem that you push to remove spent cases.
    Install at least 2-I prefer all 6 spent cases into cyl.
    Tighten rod sleeve with pliers, being careful not to cut through insulator placed on end of rod. REMEMBER--LEFT HANDED threads on rod==to tighten turn to the LEFT/CONTER-CLOCKWISE.
    Try to avoid damage to rod sleeve with pliers. Bill.

    I cloth-padded a pair of pliers and didn't have enough strength/bravery to get the rod to turn. I went left handed and had no luck getting it to move.

    It's interesting to note that it binds like this with an empty cylinder.
     

    sbcman

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Dec 29, 2010
    3,674
    38
    Southwest Indiana
    I cloth-padded a pair of pliers and didn't have enough strength/bravery to get the rod to turn. I went left handed and had no luck getting it to move.

    It's interesting to note that it binds like this with an empty cylinder.


    Well, I hate to be the one to tell you this, but your 629 is ruined. Please PM me for a FTF so I can take it off your hands.

    Seriously, don't use pliers. Put empty shells in cylinder and use a padded vice. Threads are counter-clockwise.
     

    Site Supporter

    INGO Supporter

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    531,066
    Messages
    9,965,786
    Members
    54,981
    Latest member
    tpvilla
    Top Bottom