$9.95 for an oil change... Not that cheap... Been a while... Maybe they were trying to make it up on an upsell. This was the Chevy dealer.Bulk oil is cheaper than retail bottles.
$9.95 for an oil change... Not that cheap... Been a while... Maybe they were trying to make it up on an upsell. This was the Chevy dealer.Bulk oil is cheaper than retail bottles.
That's pretty much exactly it.$9.95 for an oil change... Not that cheap... Been a while... Maybe they were trying to make it up on an upsell. This was the Chevy dealer.
Yep. its the equivalent to the free lunch when you go to a seminar. They want you in the door so they can sell you more services.That's pretty much exactly it.
My diesel takes 15 quarts. I bought 6- 5 gallon pails of Delo a few years ago for $50 each. Just used my last one. Getting bummed.The 'Vette takes 6qts+ of Mobil 1 which makes my oil & filter changes cost about $35 total
Doing work at a Tractor Supply Dist building I was given quite a few Syn Rotella 15-40 big jugs. I had the sad's like you when it was gone.My diesel takes 15 quarts. I bought 6- 5 gallon pails of Delo a few years ago for $50 each. Just used my last one. Getting bummed.
I picked them up a Rural King and they had a nice rebate. Still trying to look for another rebate.Doing work at a Tractor Supply Dist building I was given quite a few Syn Rotella 15-40 big jugs. I had the sad's like you when it was gone.
Great way to save money, get some rhino ramps, wheel chocks, oil drain pan and an oil filter wrench, one youtube video and you can do it yourself in under 10 minutes
10 minutes you say?
Well... I did the 4 Runner this afternoon (just under 5000 mi 0/20 synthetic if anyone is curious...)
You have to remove the front engine/radiator skid plate and other hardware and panels to get to the filter cartridge (not a spin on).
The oil drain plug is located under the 2nd skid plate that runs under the engine and trans.
That one has an access plate that you can pull off with 2 bolts to get at the plug.
Why they didn't put an access plate like that in the front skid plate under the filter is still a HUGE freaking mystery to me to this day.
4 plastic push pins for an forced air duct, 5 bolts for the middle fill panel from the bumper to the front skid plate
and finally 4 bolts to remove the front skid plate.
You don’t even need all that stuff. Just get a fluid extractor and then you don’t have to mess with the drain plug or raising the car up. This is, assuming you can reach the filter. The filter on my Town & Country is on top so using an extractor makes the job a breeze. A box of Costco brand synthetic oil is about 35 bucks for 10 quarts.Great way to save money, get some rhino ramps, wheel chocks, oil drain pan and an oil filter wrench, one youtube video and you can do it yourself in under 10 minutes
Toyota are horrible.Hope you didn't get oil in your chesthair.
Hey, you bought a Toyota.......who you wanna blame here?
So, you're saying you don't want to get all the oil and contaminants out? I had to use an oil extractor on my boats, never could do a "full" oil change.You don’t even need all that stuff. Just get a fluid extractor and then you don’t have to mess with the drain plug or raising the car up.
Cuz it's a Toyota! That's almost as bad as my Ram which has the oil filter over the steering gear (so the oil gets on everything). The only plus is it's air suspension so two clicks of the button and the truck raises up enough I can slide right under it.10 minutes you say?
Well... I did the 4 Runner this afternoon (just under 5000 mi 0/20 synthetic if anyone is curious...)
You have to remove the front engine/radiator skid plate and other hardware and panels to get to the filter cartridge (not a spin on).
The oil drain plug is located under the 2nd skid plate that runs under the engine and trans.
That one has an access plate that you can pull off with 2 bolts to get at the plug.
Why they didn't put an access plate like that in the front skid plate under the filter is still a HUGE freaking mystery to me to this day.
4 plastic push pins for an forced air duct, 5 bolts for the middle fill panel from the bumper to the front skid plate
and finally 4 bolts to remove the front skid plate.
I agree with you about blocking service areas with plastic panels that are held in with disposable fasteners. I have an older car that blocks the Radiator drain cock. That was bad enough when access is needed every other year. They should have designed better accessibility, at least for oil changes.10 minutes you say?
Well... I did the 4 Runner this afternoon (just under 5000 mi 0/20 synthetic if anyone is curious...)
You have to remove the front engine/radiator skid plate and other hardware and panels to get to the filter cartridge (not a spin on).
The oil drain plug is located under the 2nd skid plate that runs under the engine and trans.
That one has an access plate that you can pull off with 2 bolts to get at the plug.
Why they didn't put an access plate like that in the front skid plate under the filter is still a HUGE freaking mystery to me to this day.
4 plastic push pins for an forced air duct, 5 bolts for the middle fill panel from the bumper to the front skid plate
and finally 4 bolts to remove the front skid plate.
I never thought of Costco. Wonder if they have good diesel oil? When are they going to sell ammo?A box of Costco brand synthetic oil is about 35 bucks for 10 quarts.
I have been using a oil extractor for a few years now and when I started using it I extracted the oil and then removed the oil drain plug and so far on everything I have used it on nothing has come out of the sump with drain plug removed. It gets everything out of the sump that a drain plug removal does and maybe more.So, you're saying you don't want to get all the oil and contaminants out? I had to use an oil extractor on my boats, never could do a "full" oil change.