AR15: Major Keyholing Issues

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  • windellmc

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    Jan 5, 2011
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    Greenwood
    Not willing to read the whole thread but has anyone thrown out the idea that the .223 ammo might have accidently been loaded with 5.45x39 bullets? They will keyhole like that out of a .223 barrel.
     

    Denny347

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    Mar 18, 2008
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    Don't clean it, don't pull the flash hider off. Grab a box or 2 of factory ammo and oil the gun up. Take to range and fire same distance. If no issues, buy more fresh ammo and repeat until your satisfied the rifle is operating properly. DO NOT make it more complicated than it needs to be. The platform is quite robust and you can fire thousands of rounds through it without cleaning as long as the carrier stays wet. No need to baby it.
     

    MrYesterday

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    Jan 1, 2012
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    Shoot REAL ammo out of it, not underpowered steel cased stuff. It really isn't any more expensive to get.

    Considering I pay .20 a round for my Wolf, and .30 a round for the cheapest federal I have to disagree. :dunno:
    3 Wolf for every 2 Federal = a whole lot more shooting for me. Plus I've never had an issue out of any of my rifles with any of the 8 cases of Wolf I've gone through. :rockwoot: :twocents:
     

    Yeah

    Master
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    Dec 3, 2009
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    So what have you done to help other than crap in the OP's thread? The more ideas the better. Some suggestions might not be pertinent but people are trying to help. It's up to the OP to try what he thinks might work.

    This thread is a monument to more ideas not being better. Maybe if the title was "Why did my voodoo doll stop working", it would work. But this isn't up to what the OP thinks will work, it is up to what physics knows will work. The OP doesn't know what will actually work, so we have the thread. The majority of respondents don't know what physics knows will work, so we have the monument.

    I'll not stop to point out what I offered in terms of actual help, as it is posted for anyone to find. Nor will I explain how it stuck me then and still does as the shortest route to ascertaining the cause, since nearly everyone has a cleaning rod and a patch and that combo could eliminate other, more difficult (for the OP) to quantify variables.
     

    brwnfldl

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    May 31, 2009
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    I have a E.R. Shaw barrel that was dedicated for wolf and bear ammo. At the 6-7k round mark every the bullets started tumbling as such. It will key hole on a cardboard target from a point blank distance.

    One thing for possible diagnostics I could suggest is to pull a bore snake through your barrel, then another AR barrel of the same caliber.

    when I do this on mine. There is little to no resistance on the Shaw barrel. On every other barrel it has to be pulled through with effort.
     

    Dragon

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    Apr 11, 2011
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    Muncie, IN
    Shoot REAL ammo out of it, not underpowered steel cased stuff. It really isn't any more expensive to get.

    This has to be one of the most confusing statements I've ever heard. How is it underpowered? How many rounds of it have you fired? How much are you paying for it? Because I've never seen brass ammo that cheap. Please enlighten me.
     

    hotfarmboy1

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    Nov 7, 2008
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    Madison County
    Don't clean it, don't pull the flash hider off. Grab a box or 2 of factory ammo and oil the gun up. Take to range and fire same distance. If no issues, buy more fresh ammo and repeat until your satisfied the rifle is operating properly. DO NOT make it more complicated than it needs to be. The platform is quite robust and you can fire thousands of rounds through it without cleaning as long as the carrier stays wet. No need to baby it.



    This first of all. My AR is built with a Del Ton upper as well, although mine is the 1:9 twist. I haven't actually cleaned it since I built it. Just put a bit of oil on the bolt and buffer occasionally. And it still runs without a hitch. They can take some abuse, I probably don't have as many rounds through mine though, but it is in and out of vehicles quite a bit, not always in a case.

    Since you've already cleaned it, jump straight to trying the different ammo first. Try more than one good quality brass cased factory load. Just trying some PMC as your only factory brass cased load isn't a good idea. And just for now I wouldn't go with reloads either, stick with factory stuff. For price go with some of the PMC, maybe some remington 55 gr, or some of the federal 55 gr. Any one of them should be more accurate than the Brown bear stuff will be at any time, with much better quality control.

    Go shoot it with quality stuff and let us know what happens.
     

    turnerdye1

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    Dec 26, 2010
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    North Central IN
    Just recleaned my rifle and put some copper solvent down the barrel. Started running some patches and havent had any blue or green coloration come out of it yet. I ran them until they came out dry so my rifling isnt full of copper that i know of.

    On Friday Im going to go shoot again with a new friend and hes bringing some of his reloads, some remington and federal factory ammo, along with his Colt AR.

    We are gonna run the batch of Brown Bear and some other Wolf that i have though both of our rifles to see how it does in his rifle. If his keyholes thatll prove that the ammo is the problem. Then we are gonna run the factory ammo though mine as well just to test out.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
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    Your friend is either very brave or a bit off. I would not put anything of question down my AR's. Run yours on the good ammo first. See what that does. It does sound like you have washed out the barrel.
    Never have and never will run cheap steel through my guns. I like them too much. If you can not afford the gas mileage don't buy a hot rod. JMHO and nothing more. carry on.
     

    MrYesterday

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    Jan 1, 2012
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    Evansville
    Never have and never will run cheap steel through my guns. I like them too much.

    Am I totally mistaken in thinking that there's no difference in the actual bullets between the steel and the brass bear ammo/steel and brass wolf ammo. The only difference is really the case, and possibly the powder (since people say steel is dirtier). Considering that's true (if it is) how would steel ammo wear out a bore any faster than brass. The ONLY thing I can see steel wearing out faster is the chamber/extractor since it's a harder metal.

    Am I way off base? I've never had an issue with steel cased.
     
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