A little checkering I did over the weekend.
Springfield stainless frame.
Once I know me vise is square in the mill, I use the cutting bit to find the lowest point on the front strap. Then I use that point to set my depth of cut.. Like most 1911's it was closer to the trigger guard.
Depth depends on the LPI choice. I have the options to do 20, 25 and 30 LPI with this setup.
I work my way around with the horizontal lines, or vertical lines, which ever you want to call these...
It looks like i could go up farther but the frame starts to get thicker at this point so it is where I am stopping. Not all frames are equal here.
Then the fixture is is turned up and I start working my way down. this is the tedious part. Make 1 cut and adjust the mill each time
A little hand cleanup with a file if needed.
Since it is a stainless frame I do not have to refinish it, Just a little bead blasting to restore original look
Done
Springfield stainless frame.
Once I know me vise is square in the mill, I use the cutting bit to find the lowest point on the front strap. Then I use that point to set my depth of cut.. Like most 1911's it was closer to the trigger guard.
Depth depends on the LPI choice. I have the options to do 20, 25 and 30 LPI with this setup.
I work my way around with the horizontal lines, or vertical lines, which ever you want to call these...
It looks like i could go up farther but the frame starts to get thicker at this point so it is where I am stopping. Not all frames are equal here.
Then the fixture is is turned up and I start working my way down. this is the tedious part. Make 1 cut and adjust the mill each time
A little hand cleanup with a file if needed.
Since it is a stainless frame I do not have to refinish it, Just a little bead blasting to restore original look
Done