New 1911 owner, pointers, tips experiences, etc.

[PlinKing2392]

Hey all,
I'm preparing to be a first time 1911 owner, and I was wondering if anyone could give me a few tips on 1911 ownership. I'm not a first time pistol owner, so I have the basics. I'm looking for 1911 specific noob education. I have relied on youtube for the general breakdown and reassembly, and I won't completely understand until I get my hands dirty. I'm welcome to any and all advice. Thanks in advance.

 

[AllenM]

If it is new, point of impact may change for the first 150 rounds. I have seen that more than once so dont worry about the sights right away.

What one are you looking at buying?

 

[churchmouse]

Quality is important in a 1911. Cheap is not the answer and will come back to bite you.
There are several manf. out there. Para Ordinance, Springfield just to name a few. What are you looking at??

 

[Hondo]

Keep the gun lubed when shooting...1911's are like AR's..they like to be run wet.

 

[danimal]

1 - always wear safety glasses during take down / reassembly - recoil plug to the eye won't be fun
2 - work in a room w/o carpet, lots of little parts, and will not be fun finding stuff shooting across the room
3 - don't obsess over a 2lb trigger, 5lb is as low as you want, its more than accurate enough, and is much safer

 

[71silverbullet]

Becareful whe re-assembling or you will have the famous "idiot scratch" from the slide release. Some people place a business card on the frame under the slide release the first few times the put them back together to prevent scratching. Once you have done it a few times it will get easier.

 

[rockhopper46038]

Pay attention to what you are doing when replacing the slide stop during reassembly. There is a scratch well documented as the "idiot mark" that is quite easy to put on your new pistol, but also quite easy to avoid if you remember to push in, not up.

You may not have any problems with the magazines you get with your pistol, but if you do, Wilson 47D's and Chip McCormick Power Mags seem to end up in most 1911's eventually.

Enjoy it!

D'oh, looks like someone beat me to it.

 

[churchmouse]

Pay attention to what you are doing when replacing the slide stop during reassembly. There is a scratch well documented as the "idiot mark" that is quite easy to put on your new pistol, but also quite easy to avoid if you remember to push in, not up.

You may not have any problems with the magazines you get with your pistol, but if you do, Wilson 47D's and Chip McCormick Power Mags seem to end up in most 1911's eventually.

Enjoy it!

D'oh, looks like someone beat me to it.

The Chip McCormick power mag is the best one I have found. I have Wilson and Kimber offerings as well but the power mag seems to work best in all my 1911's
My first Colt sports the idiot scratch you mentioned. It is a right of passage into 1911 ownership.

 

[PlinKing2392]

I'm looking at a Rock Island Officers .45, parkarized, extended beaver tail. I hear they come with nice mags, the brand escapes me... Also, holsters? Leather or kydex. I can't decide. Keep the feedback comin', I'm taking notes.

 

[Bonez87]

Keep it clean a lubed up and you'll be good to go. 1911's are by far my favorite pistols!

 

[Double T]

Look up safety function check...the rest doesn't matter if the firearm is not safe.

 

[71silverbullet]

Here ya go!!
M1911 Pistol Inspection Checklist
WARNING: NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN INSPECTION AREA. CHECK THAT PISTOL AND MAGAZINES ARE UNLOADED AND CLEAR
Brand: __________________Model: ____________________Serial #: ________________Date: __________
INSPECTION OF ASSEMBLED PISTOL/BASIC FUNCTION TEST
(Mark Pass/Fail)
__________ 1. Overall condition -Inspect the pistol for obvious signs of wear, damage, or abuse. You are checking for incorrect
installation of parts, unusual finish wear, rust, corrosion, cracks, or peening damage. Look for signs of abuse such as
deep scratches (particularly around the slide stop). A slide or frame that is bowed could be signs the gun has had a
critical case failure, often referred to as a ka-boom.
__________
2. Basic firing test - Performed with the slide fully forward and the hammer cocked. Thumb safety off, pistol is held
in normal firing grip. Pull trigger and hammer should fall. Repeat the test with a pencil inserted in the barrel (eraser
end first). The pencil should be propelled out of the barrel with some force.

__________
3. Half cock notch test - Use your thumb to pull the hammer back until you hear the first click. This is the half cock
notch. Grip the gun normally and attempt to pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall for any reason, unless it is a
Series 80 commercial model. The half cock notch on the Series 80 is closer to the rest position. The hammer will fall
on a Series 80 but not with enough force to fire.
__________
4. Sear Rest/Engagement test - To test the reset complete the basic firing test (#2 above) but leave the trigger
pulled fully rearward. Pull the slide fully to the rear and then allow it to come forward into battery(hammer should now
be fully cocked). Release trigger and pull again. Hammer should fall. To test engagement, lock the slide back and
grip the gun normally. Release the slide stop, allowing the slide to slam forward under pressure from the recoil spring.
The hammer should not fall for any reason. Warning: repeatedly allowing the slide to slam closed on an empty
chamber can damage the pistol. Limit this test to one or two attempts. If you are evaluating a gun for purchase, let the
owner know you are going to perform this test and why.
__________
5. Thumb safety test - Hold gun in normal firing grip. Slide is forward, hammer is cocked, and thumb safety is on.
Attempt to pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall and you should not notice any movement of internal parts. The
trigger should come to a quick hard stop. If trigger feels mushy there may be sear movement. Release the trigger and
turn the thumb safety off. The hammer should still not fall.
__________
6. Grip Safety test - The hammer is cocked, slide fully forward, and the thumb safety is off. Hold the gun so that your
hand is not depressing the grip safety. Attempt to pull the trigger. Hammer should not fall.
__________
7. Disconnector test -Slide is forward, hammer back and thumb safety is off. Grip the gun with a normal firing grip,
and pull the slide back about 1/4" with the other hand. Pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall. Repeat the test
pulling the slide fully rearward and releasing the slide slowly while pulling the trigger every 1/2" of slide movement.
The hammer should not fall until the slide is fully in battery.
__________
8. Barrel lockup - With the slide fully forward attempt to push on the barrel hood. There should be little or no
movement. Push in on the barrel at the muzzle end, there should be no perceptible rearward travel.

__________
9. Slide lockback on empty magazine - Start with slide fully forward. Insert an empty(double check this visually and
by feel) magazine into the pistol. Pull the slide fully to the rear and release allowing the slide to come forward under
the power of the recoil spring. The slide stop should engage and the slide should stay locked open. Repeat with each
magazine that will be used with the gun.
__________
10. All magazines drop freely - With an empty magazine in the pistol, push the magazine catch button. The
magazine should drop free from the pistol. Repeat this with each magazine.

Failure of any of the tests above is an indication that the firearm being inspected potentially has some serious mechanical issues. In
that event, a more thorough examination is required. The pistol should be dis-assembled and inspected using the Field/Detail strip
checklist. Additional reference material on these tests and the affected parts can be found on the internet at the M1911 Pistols
Organization (www.m1911.org).
Notes: ______________________________________________________________________________________________________
*Disclaimer – this checklist is intended to be a general guideline and is not a substitute for an armorer’s manual or training. Some 1911’s have unique
features such as firing pin safeties or “double action” triggers. It is the users responsibility to know and understand how each part functions. The author
assumes no liability for injury or damage that occurs while using this checklist.

M1911 Pistol Inspection Checklist
WARNING: NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN INSPECTION AREA. CHECK THAT PISTOL AND MAGAZINES ARE UNLOADED AND CLEAR
Brand: __________________Model: ____________________Serial #: ________________Date: __________
Before performing any of the inspections on this checklist, the inspector should have a working knowledge of the M1911 pistol and its
component parts. This includes how each part is supposed to function, how the parts fit together, and indicators of potential problems
that you should be looking for. If you do not have this knowledge, you should consult your gunsmith. If you wish to acquire this
knowledge, it is available for free on the internet. Point your browser to the M1911 Pistols Organization (www.m1911.org). There you
will find detailed technical articles explaining the various parts and their functions. There is also a discussion forum where you can ask
questions and get assistance from people who are knowledgeable about the M1911 pistol.
INSPECTION OF FIELD STRIPPED AND DETAIL STRIPPED PISTOL*
Component Pass/Fail Component Pass/Fail
I. Field Strip Exam 3. Extractor
A. Barrel a. Proper fit
1. Bulged b. overall condition
2. Cracks at muzzle or chamber c. extractor tunnel
3. Longitudinal cracks B. Frame
4. Upper lug condition 1. Thumb Safety
5. Barrel feet condition 2. Plunger Assembly
6. Link and pin hole a. spring
7. Condition of Barrel Crown b. plungers
B. Slide 3. Hammer pin
1. Sights/Night sights 4. Hammer Assembly
2. Serrations – condition a. hooks-condition
3. Barrel bushing b. proper fit
4. Cracks c. hammer strut and pin
5. Barrel lugs 5. Mainspring Assembly
6. Slide stop notch a. Pins
7. Brass deposits (excessive) b. Spring
8. Extractor tension/ hook condition c. condition
C. Frame 6. Grip Safety
1. Magazine catch 7. Sear Spring
2. Receiver cracks 8. Sear Pin
3. Ejector 9. Sear
4. Plunger Tube a. hooks and condition
5. Disconnector head b. proper fit
6. Frame rails 10. Disconnector
7. Grips & screws 11. Magazine Catch Assembly
8. Barrel bed & vertical impact surface a. condition
9. Feed ramp b. spring
10. Slide Stop c. lock
D. Recoil spring assembly 12. Trigger
1. Plug a. correct fit
2. Guide rod b. wear
3. Recoil spring 13. Firing Pin Safety (if equipped)
II. Detail Strip Exam a. function
A. Slide b. visual inspection of parts
1. Firing pin stop 14. Magazines
2. Firing pin assembly a. tube/lips damaged
a. Firing pin damaged/broken b. Spring correct, undamaged
b. Firing pin spring c. follower worn, cracked, broken
c. Firing pin channel
Reassembly – after the components of the detail stripped pistol have found acceptable (or replaced), and they have been
cleaned and lubed, the pistol will be reassembled. The reassembled pistol should undergo a basic function test again.
Comments: _________________________________________________________________________________
*Disclaimer – this checklist is intended to be a general guideline and is not a substitute for an armorer’s manual or training. Some 1911’s have unique
features such as firing pin safeties or “double action” triggers. It is the users responsibility to know and understand how each part functions. The author
assumes no liability for injury or damage that occurs while using this checklist.

 

[PlinKing2392]

^^^^ good info. Appreciate it. Any more care advice, mods that should be considered...?

 

[Cherryspringer]

1911

I haven't had my colt 1911 all that long. But I'm now a big fan. I've had other 1911's but once I fired my mk iv series 70 gold cup nat. match I instantly realized why you pay more for a good 1911. I can't bring myself to carry it because I'm afraid I'll scratch it. But I love to shoot it and I am more accurate with it than any other pistol I have ever shot. Good luck, BA

 

[g+16]

all of the above is great information and should be followed, have you ever fired a 1911 45 acp? Things to keep in mind recoil yep if you are using factory rounds the recoil is a healthy one, don't let it jump out of your hand. Your hand position is very important, I always prefered a high grip, with a good beavertail this is no problem without it you'd get what is called hammer bite to the web of your hand if you are firing it to protect yourself you will not notice it if you're at the range plinking, yea it will hurt like hell. Learn to grip tight enough to disengage the saftey, gun control is all about controling the recoil to keep your pistol on target, learn you sight picture (where your bullet will end up at) this can vary with the different types of sights (ht. of front post) good magazines chips, wilson among others, and the biggest thing practice, practice and practice. I'm sure you have friends who fire a 45 if not, their are people on this forum from all over the state, and I'm more than one who would meet ya at a local range and help get ya zeroed in with a 45, bring plenty of ammo and welcome to the 45 club you'll like it.

 

[71silverbullet]

^^^^ good info. Appreciate it. Any more care advice, mods that should be considered...?

I would hold off on doing any mods until you have shot it at least 500-1000 rounds. Shoot it get a feel for it, most don't require any mods. But, changing the grip safety is a common modification, thats mostly to make it fit your hand better, some have a"hump" so you get a"memory by feel". Some grip safeties claim to be drop in, but most need to be fitted by a gun smith.
But I really recommend shooting it for a while before making any changes, it is after all a design that's over 100 years old with only minor changes.

 

[PlinKing2392]

I have shot a 45, luckily/unfortunately, it was a friend of a friend's custom built competition 1911. It was an awesome shooter, I was incredibly accurate with it my first time picking it up. It did kick like a mule because I wasn't expecting it, but after the first mag or so, it was smooth sailing. I say unfortunately, because I know there is nothing I can buy that will come close to that without costing more than my first car.

I'm actually on an extremely tight budget, so major mods will have to wait. I'm aware of the break in period, our as I like to cal it, when you are still dating the gun. Getting to know each other, feeling each other out, likes and dislikes, so on and so forth. I wouldn't try to make any major improvements if she weren't a keeper. That said, I am planning on changing the grips. The stock wood grips look pretty bad. Any suggestions?

 

[71silverbullet]

I like the wood ones, but Pachmayr makes a plastic/rubber wrap around grip that feels really good, its a cheap way of getting a checkered front strap.