Needing Garand advice dead trigger

[Wolfhound]

Calling all Garand gurus.

So, I inherited an M1 Garand from my Dad. It’s a Springfield Armory with a nearly new Winchester barrel. A great shooter. Only issue was the stock was rough. So, I installed a brand new replacement stock. It did require some fitting. After installing the new stock I began getting a dead trigger after firing each round. Internet research tells me some wood needs to be carefully removed to allow the trigger group to function properly.

Just to give full disclosure it has a new spring, is properly lubed and functions just fine with the old ugly stock reinstalled.

Anyone put a new stock on a Garand and have this issue? I can’t tell where exactly to carefully remove material from the new stock. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Wolfhound]

Ok, well a moment of humility. I put the old stock back on the Garand and it DOES still have the issue. I can see a little wear on the hammer so I ordered a replacement. It isn't terrible though. My father in law bought a rifle about 15 years ago and the hammer on that one looked awful.

Strange thing: every replacement hammer I looked at had a manufacturers stamp on it such as SA. The one I will be replacing has no such stamp. So....third world replacement part that didn't last perhaps? This wasn't a CMP rifle and had some Korean or Taiwan characters on the old stock showing it served overseas and came back.

 

[Johnk]

I have some experience with the Garand's trigger group and it can be difficult and frustrating to R&R.
I had an incident at Atterbury last year where my Garand trigger sorta magically morphed into a binary and the second shot followed the first so quickly that the muzzle rise put the bullet into the baffles and I was in trouble with the RO. He is familiar with me because i go there to shoot several times a month so he cut me slack & didn't charge me for the damage.
So, having said that, even though I don't have any experience with stock replacement, may I suggest you watch a YouTube video or two about replacing all the springs in the system. I base this suggestion on your returning the rifle to it's original stock and still experiencing dead trigger.
If I were you, I'd purchase and replace all the springs in the trigger but first I would remove the assembly and make sure it is put together properly. As I say from experience, the group is a bit of a challenge, at least it was for me, especially the hammer spring. You have to get it just right.
Warning: whatever you do, do not function the trigger/hammer on the bench. Put it back in the rifle first.
Hope this helps get and keep your old war horse running correctly. I only have two of them and i shoot them regularly and they will never leave my collection until after my departure from this life & the wife has to sell them.
Finally to hopefully make you feel better about your troubles and co-miserate, I'm having a problem with my M1 Carbine that is frustrating me and it has to do with shell ejection. I haven't delved to deeply yet as it just happened last week but it looks like i'm gonna have to learn how to R&R the bolt group and probably install a fresh/stronger ejector. Wonder what that will entail? YouTube here i come...

 

[BigMoose]

Now, It is possible for the garand trigger to drag on the stock.. but unlikely.

First step is to take the trigger group down and inspect all the parts.
There are two small pins that if bent, broken.. can cause dead trigger issues (other weird issues)
Next inspect the trigger and hammer sear engagement surfaces for wear..





I slightly disagree about testing the trigger out of the stock/gun.. you can do it, just make sure your holding onto the hammer when your pulling the trigger. Yes that sounds weird, but with some dexterity you can do it. Do not as JohnK says just let it fly.

 

[Wolfhound]

I appreciate the replies. The M1 Garand is great when it works and a b*tch when it doesn’t. So, I have replaced the main spring and the hammer. It is functioning better. By that I mean I went from a dead trigger for every round fired to about 2 per clip. Better but not there yet. I thought I might have had a bent op rod so took out the spring and did the function test where you tilt the rifle and watch the op rod and bolt cycle. It did not appear to drag at all.

I have watched some videos and my next move is to get out the calipers and check the end of the op rod that functions as the gas piston. Just to make sure it is within spec. The rest of the gas system seems pretty tight.

After that I guess I am taking the trigger group apart again and doing a more thorough inspection based on your advice.

I priced some operating rods and they are spendy.

Edit: the old hammer was a Winchester part. It was just stamped in a spot that was difficult to see before removing the hammer. The trigger group housing is stamped SA.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Have you checked the CMP forums to see if anyone there knows about this issue? I'm not really familiar with them but thought that might be a good place to check.

 

[Wolfhound]

Have you checked the CMP forums to see if anyone there knows about this issue? I'm not really familiar with them but thought that might be a good place to check.

I have not. I will give that a try. Thanks DD!

 

[BigMoose]

Check the trigger sear engagement surfaces.



The M1/M14 trigger has a double sear arrangement.

The sear on the left catches the hammer with the trigger pulled, the sear on the right when the trigger is not pulled.
When you let off the trigger.. it transfers to the ones on the right (the reset click you should hear)

It sounds like your trigger might be worn on the left sear. I would try a new trigger too.
Also go ahead and get a set of hammer and trigger pins, they are cheap.. and I have seen them cause more weird issues if they are bent, out of wack, or broken.. and they are stupid cheap.

 

[Wolfhound]

Check the trigger sear engagement surfaces.

View attachment 358263

The M1/M14 trigger has a double sear arrangement.

The sear on the left catches the hammer with the trigger pulled, the sear on the right when the trigger is not pulled.
When you let off the trigger.. it transfers to the ones on the right (the reset click you should hear)

It sounds like your trigger might be worn on the left sear. I would try a new trigger too.
Also go ahead and get a set of hammer and trigger pins, they are cheap.. and I have seen them cause more weird issues if they are bent, out of wack, or broken.. and they are stupid cheap.

Will do. I will keep this thread updated. I really should have replaced that stuff when I had the hammer out. I will get the parts ordered.

Any vendor recommendations?

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Will do. I will keep this thread updated. I really should have replaced that stuff when I had the hammer out. I will get the parts ordered.

Any vendor recommendations?

This place is a good source: https://www.fulton-armory.com/

Fulton Armory

Your Source for Service Rifles: M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, M14 / M1A & AR Types

www.fulton-armory.com

 

[BigMoose]

faithfuljacksurplus on ebay has them for 13.75 each. He.. has no shortage.



I love futzing with old US rifles.

 

[Johnk]

I have gotten parts from this website: M1Garand.com . When I put that website in my computer it comes up as Orion 7 E-Store. Lots of good looking parts.

 

[BigMoose]

I have gotten parts from this website: M1Garand.com . When I put that website in my computer it comes up as Orion 7 E-Store. Lots of good looking parts.

Yeah thats a good one too.

 

[Wolfhound]

I might have figured it out. Looks like I need a new trigger guard assy to start with. Mine compared to a photo on a website. I am definitely a rookie when it comes to Garands.

 

[Creedmoor]

If you want to try another op rod or two let me know. I can meet to somewhere in between.

 

[Wolfhound]

If you want to try another op rod or two let me know. I can meet to somewhere in between.

Thanks, I might take you up on that if the trigger and trigger guard don’t fix it.

 

[Creedmoor]

If you want to try another op rod or two let me know. I can meet to somewhere in between.

Now that I think about it, we should meet and I will bring a couple of trigger groups also. just to prove its something in your group'

 

[BigMoose]

Ohh yeah that lug is important.

How was the rifle even locking up without that? On one side only? That had to rattle.
When you get one make sure both lugs are round, so often they get out of round and don't lock up as good when worn.

What those two lugs do is "lock up" the stock, trigger group, into the receiver...

Without the lug.. problems to say the least.

 

[BigMoose]

Now that I think about it, we should meet and I will bring a couple of trigger groups also. just to prove its something in your group'

Its his group. His trigger guard missing a lockup lug on one side.

 

[BigMoose]