mosin trigger pull

[nova512]

im fairly new to mosins first and formost lol. i have a 1928 hex and the trigger pull is ungodly i would say way over 10 pounds.but i have firends who have mosins and thiers is id say around 4 to 6 much nicer.how can i lighten it up ?

 

[Joedirt82]

I am having the same problem with my mosin. Would you let me know if you can find a way to fix this problem.

 

[451_Detonics]

this ... Mosin-Nagant

 

[N_K_1984]

this ... Mosin-Nagant

+1

...but if you don't want to do that, there are simple easier alternatives. I did a polish job on my M44 I have at home. I'd share pics myself, but I'm in Sand Diego on travel.... but a quick google search and I found this. It coule be helpful to you. Again, just make sure you polish, don't remove metal. My stock trigger has lightened some and feels very crisp now upon breakover. Good luck! Simple Mosin Nagant Trigger Job

I did my polishing with a Dremel, you can do it by hand as the link suggests, or use a Dremel depending on how comfortable you are with it.

 

[mammynun]

I polished mine up with 400-600 grit as well, but the the thing that helped my trigger the most was shimming it.

Basically, I put metal shims (rectangle with a hole in the center) between the sear/leaf spring and the receiver where it's tighted with its screw; I used old aluminum siding and coke cans. Trimmed them to fit with tin snips. IIRC, I ended up going with 1 piece of siding and 3 pices of can, and the travel was cut by somewhere around 7/8th's.

Don't add too much! If you do, the best case is that the bolt will come out everytime you pull it to the rear; the worst case is that the rifle may fire if bumped/dropped/looked at with German eyes! If you're not sure/careful, don't do it!

I solved the bolt coming out while cycling the action by making a spring out of a guitar "G" string (largest diameter unwound). The spring presses the trgger forward, and the trigger is what keeps the bolt in the receiver on a Mosin.

Seriously, if you do this, test it many, many, many times before you even think about chambering a live round!

 

[nova512]

update,,,,polished and shimmed it.its maybe a pound or to better but still pretty sucky.so i mite look into the timney trigger.thanks all.

 

[Longshot308]

You might try Huber Triggers Huber Concepts Have used these and they work well.

 

[Hexa-Tula]

I've heard of people shimming the screw that goes into the spring. I just to 220 grit sandpaper and very gently polished up the sear and trigger. You don't want to take too much off. Also, if you want a really nice trigger, Timney makes a Mosin trigger for around $95 if I remember correctly, so you could check into that.

 

[boozoo]

The Russians used to trim the sear a little bit to shave off the angle so it doesn't "dig in" to the cocking knob. On a lot of Mosins when you start to squeeze the trigger, you can see it pulling the cocking knob down. On one of mine, I shaved the back-swept angle a very little bit at a time, and when it got close to what I thought was ideal, I did light polish job on it. Much much better.

If you want a real easy upgrade, go over to forums.gunboards.com and search for a user named Maako in the trader section. If he still has them... he was selling surplus Finn triggers and sears that can drop right on and give you a much better two stage trigger for cheap. He's in Finland, but myself and others had no issue getting parts from him.

 

[SubUrbanCamo317]

Is there someone in the Indy area that can do a trigger job on the factory trigger? I've played with the sear and trigger but its still not very good

 

[lmyer]

im fairly new to mosins first and formost lol. i have a 1928 hex and the trigger pull is ungodly i would say way over 10 pounds.but i have firends who have mosins and thiers is id say around 4 to 6 much nicer.how can i lighten it up ?

With Timney triggers the stock has to be hogged out in order for the trigger to fit. I know as I have a Timney trigger in a glass-bedded aftermarket stock to save the original. It is a 1.5# Timney with that ugly safety lever cut off and it is VERY sweet!

In my experience the extremely heavy triggers in some Mosins can easily be identified by pulling the trigger and watching the bolt. Any up/down movement of the bolt while pulling the trigger indicates excessive friction between the sear and the bolt body as it is trying to release the bolt, and this results in a very heavy trigger.

Only thing a Huber trigger does is push the sear with an adjustable ball. This reduces a little friction and allows you to make a hair trigger, but still doesn't address the sear/bolt engagement friction.

Yet another option is a floating M27 trigger that is pinned directly to the sear. These are good triggers and they fit in the original stocks. Sometimes you have to elongate the trigger slot in the magazine for proper fit. Bests Huber by a long way, but still subject to the friction between sear and bolt body. You can buy them from a guy in Finland on Gunbroker. I have two of these. Not cheap, but not as expensive as a Timney and fits in original stock.

You have to understand how a Mosin trigger works in order to safely fix things. I want to state emphatically that shimming underneath the sear is downright dangerous.

Easiest and safest thing to do is to cut 1-2 coils off the firing pin spring with a Dremel wheel. This will lighten the force between the sear and bolt body with the bolt cocked - reducing friction between the two, eliminating the up/down movement of the bolt, and as a result lighten the trigger pull and take out the excess movement. You could also safely lightly and carefully polish the meeting faces of the two parts and/or treat the two parts with moly or other metal treatment for additional friction reduction. The Finnish armorers reshaped the trigger sears, and you may find instructions on how to do this - but if you need instructions you probably shouldn't be doing it. That's all I should say about that.

Cutting the firing pin spring can be done with complete confidence in safety. Worst thing that can happen is the rifle doesn't fire. In that case, get a new spring and don't cut off so much.

Always bump test any trigger that has been worked on.

Hope this helps.

Les