Mechanics: What's the best way to clean out a Fuel Tank?

[gage]

I'm attempting to resurrect a 1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel.
It's been sitting at least 14 years. So I'm thinking it might be a good idea to remove and clean out the Fuel tank. I'm planning to remove the tank but don't know how to clean it out. There is rust visible at the opening (where you put fuel in). So What should I use to dissolve the rusty beasties? Solvent or do you recommend physically cleanning it out and if so with what? what do others do?

 

[Farmerjon]

On any old tractor I buy, if the tank is rusty I pull the tank, put a handful of rocks in it with some water (a couple of cups) and shake the heck out of it. The rocks will knock loose the rust. Then when I reassemble everything I put a copper tube in the line so that it extends up oh about a 1/4" past the bottom of the tank, that way I am not ever sucking the debris that is "floating" around the bottom of a tank.
I don't know the product's name, but there is a product for "painting" the inside of a tank, more like sealing it. Thus it contains the loose particles. Do this right and you will never regret the time involved. Good luck.

 

[Fenway]

I'm not a mechanic but have you priced out an aftermarket tank?

 

[Bill B]

I would honestly get a new tank. If it has been sitting (and corroding) for 14 years there is no telling how badly the metal has been comprimised. If you manage to clean it out (usually by tumbling with a sandblasting medium in it) you can't tell how thinly it may be worn, it is likely to develop leaks or structurally fail, especially at the mounting points.
my
IANAL but I am a mechanic.

 

[remymartin]

New tank, or call a local radiator shop, they can clean and seal older tanks. Catch is, you gotta pull it out and bring it to them.. good luck

 

[gage]

Thanks for the comments.
Once I pull it I'll inspect it a little closer.
Maybe the rust hasn't compromised the tank beyond repair.
It appeared almost superficial...from condensation etc..it could scrub off pretty clean. I like the idea of coating the inside.

I'll try to post photos tomorrow.

 

[gage]

I'm not a mechanic but have you priced out an aftermarket tank?

yeah but every dime I spend elsewhere I can't give to INGO!

I'll be checking it out no doubt

 

[fireball168]

Redi Strip Indy - Precision Metal Cleaning

They have done several for me. Strip the tank of everything you can, take the carcass to them and let them dip it.

$75-100

 

[gage]

New tank, or call a local radiator shop, they can clean and seal older tanks. Catch is, you gotta pull it out and bring it to them.. good luck

I don't mind pulling it. I hear there's nothing like the smell of 14+ year old diesel fuel.

Does anyone have a shop located in the Indianapolis area that they would like to recommend?

 

[gage]

Redi Strip Indy - Precision Metal Cleaning

They have done several for me. Strip the tank of everything you can, take the carcass to them and let them dip it.

$75-100

Thanks! Redi Strip Indy looks like the ticket!

 

[Ogre]

Use about a 4 foot length of chain. Drop it in and shake it around until theres nothing left to come loose. I would do this then the sealant product.

 

[antdog/zook]

i think the kit is called "kreme"? i have done this on motorcycle tanks, but it has been awhile. 3 steps: etching acid, then sealer, then a coating. dont get the coating on anything you dont want it on, it does not come off easily.

 

[Tactical Dave]

Steam.


Ther are at least one or two of those cars that have hit a million miles....

 

[gage]

and so it begins....

Thank you all for the help.
Cleaning/repairing Fuel system and Brake system is on the top of my list.

I'm ordering Fuel system components (filters, hoses etc) this weekend and thinking about ordering from DieselGiant.com (has anyone done business with them before?). My aim is to clean or replace and detail each part (nut, bolt, component) as I move through system.

The wheels and rotors are removed today. A ton of rust made this difficult. I'm going to see if Monroe Mufflers and Brakes will resurface the rotors next week. New pads are needed. The calipers just look scary rusted and unsure if I can clean them up or if I need to order new ones.

If anyone is interested in this project I can update as progress is made with photos etc.

Otherwise I anticipate giving Redi Strip Indy the Fuel tank for cleaning and sealing after I pull it this week.

Thanks again for the knowledge and insight from everyone.

 

[target64]

i think the kit is called "kreme"? i have done this on motorcycle tanks, but it has been awhile. 3 steps: etching acid, then sealer, then a coating. dont get the coating on anything you dont want it on, it does not come off easily.

yep.....good stuff......and good advice

 

[Hoosier8]

I wouldn't worry about it. Put on a good fuel filter. If the filter clogs quickly then you may want to clean it out, otherwise why waste time and money if it may not be a real problem.

Mercedes already have a couple of inline fuel filters anyway.

BTW, if it runs and you want to get rid of it.

 

[Fenway]

gage... why are you restoring this car. No being a smart ass. Just curious!

 

[ThrottleJockey]

I haven't seen it mentioned here yet, so I will. There is a form of algae that will grow in diesel fuel and it is a real bugger to part with. It looks like spaghetti or tapeworms and it is not fun if it gets into any part of the system. For this reason I strongly recommend a new or gently used tank, or even a fuel cell or other type of tank that will fit in the trunk....It doesn't have to be OEM or even go in the same place, this can save you some bux. Try an aluminum beer keg, they polish up really nice and can be easily strapped down in the trunk...

 

[Hoosier8]

My impression of these diesel Mercedes is that they are heavy cars that you get normal gas mileage cost with diesel fuel.

The best thing about them is the ride. Instead of a hard shell with foam like most American cars, the seats are sprung with springs that have the same spring rate as the suspension. That means when you go over a bump where the wheels take most of the shock but impart some to the frame, when the frame moves up, the seats don't, giving you one of the best rides ever.

I didn't think I would like the almost bench feeling seats when I bought a used 70's turbo diesel, but spend any time on the road and you won't want to ride in anything else.

 

[gage]

gage... why are you restoring this car. No being a smart ass. Just curious!

My current ride, a 1985 Nissan Maxima, is dissolving (rust). I bought it for $200 a few years back and it's been a champ
but the rust demon has rendered all attempts at saving/restoring futile. It's a pity because the engine still has plenty of life remaining.

I'm restoring this car:

1) to become more mechanically knowledgeable. Saving money in the long run and helping others if needed.
A key factor is self sufficiency. I'm keen on the idea of depending on myself for repairs and maintenance.
I'll refrain from the several horror stories of my dealings with dealerships etc

2) because it is a worthy investment. W123 Mercedes are respected vehicles for reliability and ease to work on.
I'm a sucker for things well made (workmanship etc). I was lucky to have gotten it for $400 on it and
suppose making a profit on it once I get road worthy isn't unreasonable. The interior is silly immaculate.
I'll be trying not to muck it up with all the stuff I haul around. If I do keep it, our household is set up for
bio-fuel processing and this model is ideal for using bio-fuel (has value if SHTF). So it's a win either way (keep or sale).

3) Fun and Saving Sanity. Yep, getting dirty and greasy and fumbling with the mechanical innards of something I
depend on daily will be refreshing. It was fun hitting the rotors to loosen up the years of accumulated rust and to
learn how calipers function. So it's a break from my everyday focus which involves writing and studying molecules.

The short of it is I'm restoring this car because of necessity (need a new ride) and I want to invest in something worth while.