Mauser byf dated 41 "Early Black Widow" Luger

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  • pewpewINpewpew

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    What product/s did you use on the holster? Or PM me a link, I have a Luger from 1916 I inherited back in 2004. Has a holster that could use some love.
    Thanks in advance.
    As I learned, don't use oils as they penetrate and soften the leather which will make it lose shape. Lanolin is what was recommended. Some brushing with a soft bristle brush then lanolin. You should look online for OLD holster repairs and see if a brand was listed as I just got it off Amazon. I also asked about proper storage humidity and temp and was told 50-70% humidity and about 69 F. I am in the process of looking at Boveda bags to keep the humidity right, same idea as long term cigar storage.
     

    pewpewINpewpew

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    Thanks for the reply, you saved the holster, as I was thinking of mink oil. Good thing I'm lazy sometimes.
    Yeah, common mistake which I made and then was blasted on a different forum by the "experts". I searched online and saw both being used, Lanolin and Mink Oil, but the consensus is to use Lanolin. Thankfully, it doesn't destroy the holster as they will make you think BUT they are correct and why risk it.
     

    MrSmitty

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    Sorry for the many posts, but I have a question..What makes it a Black Widow Luger?, The Early, kind of speaks for itself, but the Black widow?
     

    pewpewINpewpew

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    My guess is the black (bakelite?) grips and black magazine cap. You see wood used in the other models. From my limited research, the Black Widow name was from a salesman as a marketing gimmick. The true Luger guys HATE the Black Widow name.
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    Sorry for the many posts, but I have a question..What makes it a Black Widow Luger?, The Early, kind of speaks for itself, but the Black widow?
    "These distinctive pistols, with their black bakelite grips and un-numbered black plastic magazine bottoms are known as the "Black Widow" variant of the P-08 Luger pistol. Germany devised a series of manufacturer codes intended to deny production information to the military intelligence services of other countries."

     

    shootersix

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    Ok op, first thing beautiful gun! Second amazing story! I’m envious of you and this pistol!

    Now for the bad news, if you happen to find a takedown lever with “10” on it, it might take some smithing to get it to fit.

    I’ve read that the reason “parts matching” is important is because a lot of the parts were had fitted and won’t interchange. So if the armoror took more than one apart, he knew that every piece stamped with “10” would fit the gun whose serial number ended with 10, unlike our military who said “screw it, let’s make everything exactly the same!” And that’s the reason my Korean War era garand has a ww2 Springfield trigger and op rod
     

    pewpewINpewpew

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    Ok op, first thing beautiful gun! Second amazing story! I’m envious of you and this pistol!

    Now for the bad news, if you happen to find a takedown lever with “10” on it, it might take some smithing to get it to fit.

    I’ve read that the reason “parts matching” is important is because a lot of the parts were had fitted and won’t interchange. So if the armoror took more than one apart, he knew that every piece stamped with “10” would fit the gun whose serial number ended with 10, unlike our military who said “screw it, let’s make everything exactly the same!” And that’s the reason my Korean War era garand has a ww2 Springfield trigger and op rod
    Thank you and I agree, IF I can ever find one. I have been spending a couple hours per week looking for the #10 stamped locking bolt and haven't even found a complete setup with the number 10. If only 7000 were made, and the last two digits of the serial numbers range from 00 to 99, I only have a possible 700 with the #10. I would guess 85%+ of those are gone, which leaves me with a possible 105. Probably 90% of those 105 are not going to be available or up for sale as a complete set, which means I am hunting for 1 of 10. Not quite impossible but if I can find a #10 stamped, I will find someone that can make it work.
    Obviously, I have zero knowledge of WW2 gunsmithing during a time of war but how many guns could a single person be taking apart at once where they needed to stamp almost EVERY SINGLE PART?
     

    Mongo59

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    As I learned, don't use oils as they penetrate and soften the leather which will make it lose shape. Lanolin is what was recommended. Some brushing with a soft bristle brush then lanolin. You should look online for OLD holster repairs and see if a brand was listed as I just got it off Amazon. I also asked about proper storage humidity and temp and was told 50-70% humidity and about 69 F. I am in the process of looking at Boveda bags to keep the humidity right, same idea as long term cigar storage.
    Or you can call lanolin by it's real name... sheep fat. Isn't it strange how all we need is already here on earth before man needed it? What a coincidence...
     

    Mongo59

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    Thank you and I agree, IF I can ever find one. I have been spending a couple hours per week looking for the #10 stamped locking bolt and haven't even found a complete setup with the number 10. If only 7000 were made, and the last two digits of the serial numbers range from 00 to 99, I only have a possible 700 with the #10. I would guess 85%+ of those are gone, which leaves me with a possible 105. Probably 90% of those 105 are not going to be available or up for sale as a complete set, which means I am hunting for 1 of 10. Not quite impossible but if I can find a #10 stamped, I will find someone that can make it work.
    Obviously, I have zero knowledge of WW2 gunsmithing during a time of war but how many guns could a single person be taking apart at once where they needed to stamp almost EVERY SINGLE PART?
    That is one of the reasons they eventually went with the P38...
     

    Bluedragon

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    Hello again, I wanted to add another video relating to Black Widows for further reference to this thread for anyone reading on the subject. Cheers

     
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