Nice edge on the Buckster!Now imagine the safety lever on top haha
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It’s practically brand new lol I carry it everywhere but haven’t cut much with it yetNice edge on the Buckster!
Dead on! And smooth. The recoil/kick is not any different than my 9mm pistolsCan't comment on the saftey. But, can comment on the Tisas 1911A1. Picked up one a few months ago. What a sweeeeet shooter she is.
I just picked one up at the end of December. It's the 1911A1 GI model. I'm in love. It's spoiled me for all other triggers, except on my double action Smiths.Can't comment on the saftey. But, can comment on the Tisas 1911A1. Picked up one a few months ago. What a sweeeeet shooter she is.
100% AGREE, My EDC is a S&W 5904. I Can't decide which I like more now.I just picked one up at the end of December. It's the 1911A1 GI model. I'm in love. It's spoiled me for all other triggers, except on my double action Smiths.
Me to. I have the OD green World War II 1911 clone. The S&W triggers are as smooth as warm butter for sure.I just picked one up at the end of December. It's the 1911A1 GI model. I'm in love. It's spoiled me for all other triggers, except on my double action Smiths.
Jimmy'd two zipties under the safety and slid my buck knife into the seam on the left side. it was quite hokey
the smoothest butter!Me to. I have the OD green World War II 1911 clone. The S&W triggers are as smooth as warm butter for sure.
a love story as old as timeIllustrating yet again.....1911s and Buck knives go together like steaks and potatoes.
WELL, since the factory coating gets stripped off, that will make it have less resistance in that area, however, depending on how thick the plating is laid down, I may have to persuade the opening in the frame a touchIf it was that difficult to remove... I wonder how it's gonna go back together once there's more material in the way...
Do not open up the frame. Just don't. You should have verified the fit by reassembling the gun before you proceed to getting the parts recoated. I have been into more of these than I can count or remember. If you have to pry it apart then something is wrong. A hammer should not be required. Or a pry bar of any kind. Putting the cart in front of the horse.WELL, since the factory coating gets stripped off, that will make it have less resistance in that area, however, depending on how thick the plating is laid down, I may have to persuade the opening in the frame a touch
After hours of trying, and reading watching tons of videos of people taking them apart, I didn’t once do anything that wasn’t recommended to do.Do not open up the frame. Just don't. You should have verified the fit by reassembling the gun before you proceed to getting the parts recoated. I have been into more of these than I can count or remember. If you have to pry it apart then something is wrong. A hammer should not be required. Or a pry bar of any kind. Putting the cart in front of the horse.
It's you gun but know that you are into one of the most critical control sections. Please be careful and do the right thing when you get the parts back. Modifying the frame is not one of them.
You tube can be your friend. It has been mine on a few occasions. But it can also give bad info.After hours of trying, and reading watching tons of videos of people taking them apart, I didn’t once do anything that wasn’t recommended to do.
I didn’t pry or bend anything at all. When I get all the parts back, I’ll try to recreate the method I used to get it out. And I’ll make sure it all fits properly and is working before I even attempt to fully reassemble.
I’m not new to firearms, but am new to 1911s. I definitely did not wanna do anything to ruin my brand new weapon.
I absolutely understand, and appreciate your cautions. I mostly thought it was either the coating was too thick from factory, or maybe I wasn't putting enough pressure on the grip safety or too much pressure on the grip safety, or maybe the hammer wasn't back far enough. It could've been 100% operator error, and then finally I did it right.You tube can be your friend. It has been mine on a few occasions. But it can also give bad info.
Having been seriously involved in the 1911 platform for a long time I see some of these videos and cringe.
I have had to persuade a few thumb safeties to remove them, but I always locate and rectify the reason they are not cooperating. And then run multiple safety function checks. That safety ties into the ignition group and can, if improperly installed/modified, cause serious problems. I come off strong when discussing this as I really don't want anyone getting hurt. Simple as that.
That is the right way. And yes, I am cautious in these regards.I absolutely understand, and appreciate your cautions. I mostly thought it was either the coating was too thick from factory, or maybe I wasn't putting enough pressure on the grip safety or too much pressure on the grip safety, or maybe the hammer wasn't back far enough. It could've been 100% operator error, and then finally I did it right.
If once I go to reassemble, and it doesn't fit or operate right, I won't even attempt to fully assemble it, and consult someone who knows them better than I do, to make sure it's functioning properly.
thank you for droppin the 1911 knowledge. I do love it already. Just wasn't happy with the factory look.That is the right way. And yes, I am cautious in these regards.
Once you get to know your way around a 1911 you will come to love them as I have. The idiosyncrasy's (or Idiotsyncrasy's)
are a constant learning curve.
Be safe, always