That seems like a good deal. How you like the trigger on it?I just picked up this RWS 34 T06 Classic .22 in the box at the gun show yesterday For $225. Didn't think that was too bad. Seems to be accurate offhand at about 30' and has a good, solid feel to it. I like the fiber optic sights with no plans to scope it for the time being. Never mind the flyer.
View attachment 267330
View attachment 267331
The trigger seems really good. Once you take up the slack it is very light and crisp. I had a basic idea for a springer and bought better than originally anticipated because it seemed like a good deal. It was only after I got home and didThat seems like a good deal. How you like the trigger on it?
When they opened the Sportsmans Warehouse down here, they had three of them in .22 cal. on the first stocking of the shelves. I thought about them, even got one out and looked at it. I hem-hawed around and missed out, and they never restocked...just reverted to the usual Benjamins, "Rugers" and Gamos. By the time I decided to get a HW, even those were all gone in .22 and backordered for months!The trigger seems really good. Once you take up the slack it is very light and crisp. I had a basic idea for a springer and bought better than originally anticipated because it seemed like a good deal. It was only after I got home and did
a bit more research I read about the T6 trigger.
Don't forget threadlocker on the trigger screw. They are notorious for backing out. Weihrauches loosen in the "lightening" direction. When you think "Boy, this trigger really breaks nice," that's your "low fuel" indicator coming on. When you think, "Wow, that shot went off before my brain even thought of firing," that's the engine sputtering.Adjusted the trigger on the Diana RWS 46 with its front & rear trigger screws to lighten it up a bit.
I improved a little better inserting pellets into the "loading gate."
I am handicapped by my bony/fat stubby thumb & forefinger, but it's never going to be as fluid as loading a break barrel.
I saw research how the underlever or sidelever spring air rifles with a fixed barrel are a little bit more accurate, at the same price point.
There were 2 trigger adjustment screws side by side in front of the trigger.
I refer to them as the "front screw," (further from trigger) & the "rear screw" (closest to trigger).
Stock adjustments of both screws:
- front screw = took 1 turn cw to be as far in as possible.
- rear screw = 4 turns cw to be as far in as possible.
My adjustments after turning cw all the way in:
- Front screw = None/0 ccw turns.
- Rear screw = 5.5, 7, then 8 turns ccw.
This lightened up the trigger some.
Though, it didn't seem to make a discernable lighter trigger pull increasing my ccw turns of rear screw.
But, I lost all free play at 5.5 ccw turns.
Gained slight free play at 7 ccw turns, then a hair more free play at 8 ccw turns.
If I understood my research correctly, backing out the front screw would only add to the weight of the trigger pull.
It was all about the rear screw.
It was difficult finding info & none with vids available specific to the Diana 46.
If I would have taken my trigger pull weight gauge, I would have experimented more.
Appreciate so much you taking the time to being detailed in spelling that out!Don't forget threadlocker on the trigger screw. They are notorious for backing out. Weihrauches loosen in the "lightening" direction. When you think "Boy, this trigger really breaks nice," that's your "low fuel" indicator coming on. When you think, "Wow, that shot went off before my brain even thought of firing," that's the engine sputtering.
I always wondered why they put automatic safeties on them. This is probably why. The triggers seem to have the ability to lighten down to the point where the act of snapping the barrel shut could probably slip the sear off. When I'm making adjustments on springers, I always make sure that when clicking the automatic safety off, the gun is pointing in a safe direction. Because there is probably some level where it will fire just from the act of flipping off the safety (ie, the sear has actually already released, but the gun won't fire until you take the safety off). Germany isn't as lawsuit-happy as we are, and the Germans design these things as "big boy guns," and I love them for it. But it does require some attention to detail on the part of the shooter.
I always do the "ball point pen modification" on my CZ .22 triggers, and it produces a nice 1lb. pull. But I got greedy on one and clipped enough off the spring that eventually, the act of lowering the bolt handle would drop the striker. I had to learn to "Bump test" the trigger with a nice hit on the buttpad with a rubber mallet, to "suss out" the safety level of my modifications.
But a spring airgun without threadlocker can eventually push you into the danger zone without much warning.
I don't have an RWS currently, and have never used fingernail polish. But on my WH's, once I had them in a good spot feel-wise, I counted revolutions to take them all the way out, applied loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions. I took care to have the gun lying sideways while doing this, so I'm not allowing excess loctite to drain downward into the trigger mechanism and possibly gum it up. You will have time to cock it and fire a couple times to verify trigger pull, and possibly turn the screw a bit more, before it dries. It's best to do this at the end of a shooting session, so the gun can sit undisturbed a decent time without recoil vibration while the loctite dries.Appreciate so much you taking the time to being detailed in spelling that out!
When I change the adjustments on rear sights, especially the ones that don't "click" into position,
I write down the "o'clock" position (example: 10:6 or 3:9 or 2:8) of the screw head slot (where flathead screwdriver fits) & check them from time to time to make sure they are not slipping.
I will now do the same with the position of the 2 trigger screws.
I'll experiment more with the "best position" of exactly where I want them after I take my trigger weight gauge to confirm screw positioning & best trigger.
Do I turn the screws ccw completely out, then apply the threadlocker, then screw cw turning back to the position where I want them?
And, should I be afraid of screwing the screw out too much & it falling out
or
is there some sort of "brake" for the screw that keeps that from happening?
I also read to use fingernail polish on the trigger screws instead of the blue or red Loctite so a person can more easily move the screws later if they want.
Your feedback?
Sorry if terminology isn't correct.
Never attempted any sort of trigger adjustments before.
Any particular strength ?Don't forget threadlocker on the trigger screw. They are notorious for backing out.
You said, "I counted revolutions to take them (screws) all the way out, applied Loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions."I don't have an RWS currently, and have never used fingernail polish. But on my WH's, once I had them in a good spot feel-wise, I counted revolutions to take them all the way out, applied loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions. I took care to have the gun lying sideways while doing this, so I'm not allowing excess loctite to drain downward into the trigger mechanism and possibly gum it up. You will have time to cock it and fire a couple times to verify trigger pull, and possibly turn the screw a bit more, before it dries. It's best to do this at the end of a shooting session, so the gun can sit undisturbed a decent time without recoil vibration while the loctite dries.
Once I disturb an HW from the factory setting, it can work out to a dangerously light level within a shooting session. Your RWS may be totally different, of course. But this will work on your HW35, and that trigger is capable of going as light as your dexterity and blood pressure can stand.
The HW screws will come all the way out. Although, the trigger should get DARN light to warn you first. The Weihrauches are way easier than what your RWS sounds like. There's only one screw, and nothing you can get wrong. It is not "fiddly." You will have a 1-lb. trigger in 30 seconds.You said, "I counted revolutions to take them (screws) all the way out, applied Loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions."
Does this mean you literally backed the screws (ccw) all the way until they came out?
Or, was there a "stop" or "brake" that prevented the screws from coming all the way out?
I read about a person with a Weihrauch 30 air rifle that a screw had fallen out unexpectedly months after he had done a minor adjustment.
Great detail about putting the rifle on its side so as not to have any excess Loctite ooze into the trigger mechanism.
I have a Weihrauch HW35E break barrel springer that I've never tried to figure out the trigger adjustment, but maybe I'll get my courage up if my attempt with the Diana RWS 46 goes w/o incident.
Again, thanks for the attention to detail & sharing your experience!
I don't believe the Diana 46 has the capability of approaching a 1# trigger like theThe HW screws will come all the way out. Although, the trigger should get DARN light to warn you first. The Weihrauches are way easier than what your RWS sounds like. There's only one screw, and nothing you can get wrong. It is not "fiddly." You will have a 1-lb. trigger in 30 seconds.