Smith and Wesson 629 Thumbpiece broke

[blamecharles]

My father in law has recently purchased a used S&W 629 that doesn't have the thumbpiece to release the cylinder. I have found the replacement parts but from looking at it the actual stud to screw the nut onto is broken off completely. I have looked everywhere online but am getting too many returns to make it through all of them. Any help would be great, even though it looks like a trip to S&W is in order. Thanks in advance. I would have to get pictures on later if needed for clarification.

 

[agentcolt]

cylinder bolt

You need a new bolt.You will need to remove the side plate & the hammer to change the part.


brownells.com



940-000-559
Bolt, MIM


Factory Part Number(s):
226870000

 

[printcraft]

You need a new bolt.You will need to remove the side plate & the hammer to change the part.


brownells.com



940-000-559
Bolt, MIM


Factory Part Number(s):
226870000

Nice find.

Yes, use the right screwdrivers to get the side plate off.

You have to take the lockwork out to get to this part as it is buried beneath
everything else in there but it is not that complicated.
Take pictures with your cell phone on each step and reverse to reassemble.

 

[Doug]

Please use the correct technique to remove the side plate, if you intend to work on it yourself.

Remove the grips and the screws holding the side plate on.
Cradle the gun in your left hand with the side plate down.
Rap the left side of the frame with a non-marring hammer until the side plate comes out enough to be lifted off.
DO NOT use a screwdriver to pry it off.
Word to the wise

 

[Drail]

You can also use a wooden or plastic handle of a hammer or screwdriver to tap the frame. Tap on the part of the frame that the grips cover. You may have to give it 3 or 4 good whacks. Just don't use a metal hammer. If you hold the sideplate side down just above the bench over a rag or rubber mat the hammer block will fall out with the sideplate into your hand or on the bench. Don't let the sideplate hit the floor and and don't lose the hammer block. It rides on a small pin on the rebound slide with hammer block slid upwards on that little pin as far as it will go. The sideplate won't go back on unless you get the hammer block positioned just right. Ease the sideplate back into position with the top of the sideplate sliding into the frame first. Line it up exactly and press in into place with your thumbs. Don't whack it. Replace the screws snugly but don't torque them too tightly. Absolutley make sure your screwdriver bit fills the screw slot in width and depth. Use a hollow ground bit, not a Craftsman screwdriver. It will booger the screws and or slip out and scratch the crap out of your frame.

 

[blamecharles]

Nice find.

Yes, use the right screwdrivers to get the side plate off.

You have to take the lockwork out to get to this part as it is buried beneath
everything else in there but it is not that complicated.
Take pictures with your cell phone on each step and reverse to reassemble.

Definitely will.

Please use the correct technique to remove the side plate, if you intend to work on it yourself.

Remove the grips and the screws holding the side plate on.
Cradle the gun in your left hand with the side plate down.
Rap the left side of the frame with a non-marring hammer until the side plate comes out enough to be lifted off.
DO NOT use a screwdriver to pry it off.
Word to the wise

Read about this on a different forum thanks for confirming.

You can also use a wooden or plastic handle of a hammer or screwdriver to tap the frame. Tap on the part of the frame that the grips cover. You may have to give it 3 or 4 good whacks. Just don't use a metal hammer. If you hold the sideplate side down just above the bench over a rag or rubber mat the hammer block will fall out with the sideplate into your hand or on the bench. Don't let the sideplate hit the floor and and don't lose the hammer block. It rides on a small pin on the rebound slide with hammer block slid upwards on that little pin as far as it will go. The sideplate won't go back on unless you get the hammer block positioned just right. Ease the sideplate back into position with the top of the sideplate sliding into the frame first. Line it up exactly and press in into place with your thumbs. Don't whack it. Replace the screws snugly but don't torque them too tightly. Absolutley make sure your screwdriver bit fills the screw slot in width and depth. Use a hollow ground bit, not a Craftsman screwdriver. It will booger the screws and or slip out and scratch the crap out of your frame.

Thanks

You need a new bolt.You will need to remove the side plate & the hammer to change the part.


brownells.com



940-000-559
Bolt, MIM


Factory Part Number(s):
226870000

Thanks for confirming i had seen that but wasn't positive about it. I will update this post with pics of the repair when possible.

 

[686 Shooter]

Another source for parts and information is Numrich, gunpartscorp.com, Numrich Gun Parts Corp. - The World's Largest Supplier of Firearms Parts and Accessories . They also have schematics that can be helpful for reassembly.

 

[blamecharles]

Another source for parts and information is Numrich, gunpartscorp.com, Numrich Gun Parts Corp. - The World's Largest Supplier of Firearms Parts and Accessories . They also have schematics that can be helpful for reassembly.

They are sold out on this part as well a better price, is this a common piece that breaks?

 

[686 Shooter]

They are sold out on this part as well a better price, is this a common piece that breaks?

I don't think it is a common piece that breaks, but I have seen the screw come loose, probably someone over torqued it. Call Smith and Wesson also, they may help you out.

 

[Drail]

In twenty years of working on S&W revolvers I have never seen one break. But I definitely believe that it is possible if there were maybe a casting void or as suggested someone got tired of it being repeatedly loosened by recoil (heavy loads) and decided to tighten the bejesus out of it with the biggest Snapon screwdriver they had. It was not designed to take a lot of torque. They do loosen up. I use a little blue Loc-tite and check all of the screws frequently on the N frame Smiths. I have seen a number of guns lose rear sights and screws simply because the owner never bothered to check them. The worst gun for self disassembly I have ever seen are Charter Bulldogs. (I own one) They're just like an old Harley. You have to constantly check and tighten all of the fasteners or else pieces WILL fall off. But I still love it.

 

[EPD1102]

What's the barrel length on the gun? I think you should probably consider the gun as scrap and sell the whole thing to me and I'll take care of getting it fixed. (Insert mischievous grin here.)

 

[blamecharles]

What's the barrel length on the gun? I think you should probably consider the gun as scrap and sell the whole thing to me and I'll take care of getting it fixed. (Insert mischievous grin here.)

Dirty Harry length lol. And I tried that already. What is the going rate on a gently used one, this is the only blemish on it.

 

[Turn Key]

S&W has a lifetime warranty on their newer guns.

If this gun was mine I would just send it into them for repair and a free warranty check.

JMO,

~TK