Need to vent about Bob Poynter, Seymour

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BOB POYNTER CHEVY DOES SUB PAR PAINT WORK!!!!!!! People need to know not to bring you vehicle to BP for any body work. They had my truck for 2 months and what I got back was a joke. I brought it back the first time for huge specs of dirt, primer exposed (yes primer), dents they were paid to fix but didn't fixed, along with ripped window tint and crack tail light, and large cracks in the paint. They fixed the exposed primer, window tint, cracked tail light, and most of the dirt specs.

I got it back the second time and it still has the dent and cracks in the paint. They say the cracks are from bondoe that was cracked. Funny thing is this wasn't in the old paint and when I asked why it didn't show in the old paint they said they didn't know. I asked them to let me get this straight cracks in the bondoe that doesn't show up in the old paint, but shows up in the new paint, that's on top the old paint (that's not cracked)?

I'm a paint technician for an automotive company with 16 years experience and I know that this is a line of BS they are giving me. They know as well as I do the cracks are either from too thick of paint, too short of flash time or they mixed the paint wrong.
IMO it just comes down to they simply have had my truck too long and all the work they are doing now is free work and want to rid themselves of this, so they can get back to paying jobs. They should have got it right the first time and all this could have been avoided.

I called my insurance agent (this work is from an accident) and they are going to look at BP's work. I also plan to have a different body shop look at the work and give me a written explanation on what they think is happening. I will then use this information to turn them into the BBB, and the FTC. I also plan to take this to small claims if need be.

People listen too me, if you need body work done to your car. DON'T GO TO BOB POYNTER. Don't make the same mistake I made.

 

[88GT]

Diamond Collision FTW!!!!!!!!

Sorry to hear about your experience though. It's bad enough to pay for crappy workmanship, but when they try to lie about it, it sends me through the roof. BTDT. Keep on 'em. Most of them drag their heels hoping the delay will be enough to discourage the disgruntled customer. It pays to be stubborn sometimes.

 

[VaGriller]

Can you photograph the cracks and post them? What was the total labor hours on the job--body+refinish?

Are the cracks in the paint on metal or plastic?

 

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Can you photograph the cracks and post them? What was the total labor hours on the job--body+refinish?

Are the cracks in the paint on metal or plastic?

I couldn't get a good picture in the dark, will do in the day light. Labor was 41.8 for sheet metal and 27.7 for paint. All the cracks was on the metal.

 

[Ted]

Civil action?

 

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Here are some pictures of their work.

First two are on top of the bed rail.

This one is the side of the bed, it's a lot worst than the photo shows. You see mostly the reflection. The crack looks like a y in the sky.

I can live with the first two, but the last one is on the side and very easily seen. I'm also thinking it's going to cause problems in the future, so I want it fixed before it does.

Bob Poynter was paid 6500 for this work. He suppose to be the top body shop in the area. I'm not impressed.

 

[jblomenberg16]

Just curious, but before you go Nuclear and go to the BBB or civil action, why not ask to talk to Bob about it? I've worked for Bob in the past, and done a lot of business there. I think a face to face discussion with him might find better resolution for you than trying to go the route you are planning.

If that doesn't work, then bring in the other angle. Just my


I would highly recommend Jim's on the West Side of town (Hwy 50 & Airport) road if you end up needing to get it fixed in another place.

 

[jblomenberg16]

double tap

 

[bullet]

Just curious, but before you go Nuclear and go to the BBB or civil action, why not ask to talk to Bob about it? I've worked for Bob in the past, and done a lot of business there. I think a face to face discussion with him might find better resolution for you than trying to go the route you are planning.

If that doesn't work, then bring in the other angle. Just my


I would highly recommend Jim's on the West Side of town (Hwy 50 & Airport) road if you end up needing to get it fixed in another place.

I did talk to them. First time I got it back I returned it with a list of things that needed redone or just simply done, exposed primer, dents not fixed, cracked tail lights etc. All of which they charged for, but didn't do. They did most of what needed done, but when it came to the cracks they claimed it was an existing condition "it's in the bondo" was their exact words. When I asked them if it's in the Bondo then why wasn't the original paint cracked in that area also? Their words were "I don't know why it didn't show in the original paint, I don't have an answer for that"

I'm going to give them a 3rd chance. After my insurance company looks at it. I plan to get a second opinion from another paint shop and then return to BP. If they still want to clam it's an preexisting condition then I will go to the BBB, FTC and file a civil suit. I going to have the repairs done by another shop and sue BP for the bill.

People who know me know I don't take crap for companies like this. I may spend more money in the long run, but I'm not letting places like this walk all over me.

 

[amboran]

T&T body shop( between Brownstown and Seymour) has done all my kid's cars after deer encounters,vandalism,wrecks,and even my pickup after being hit in front of my house while it was parked. They have always done top notch work. Tom and Terry (T&T) have been in business for decades-my recommendation.

 

[VaGriller]

I've been in the collision industry for 10+ years now so take my opinion for what its worth. I don't work for Bob Poynter nor have I ever heard of him. With the shops in Virginia I worked for having average car counts of 300/month, I've seen a lot of work come and go.

I have personally seen cracks like that happen in areas that didn't look cracked before, but they were. You see it a lot on urethane bumpers, if there is even the tiniest stress crack in the old paint that was not noticeable before, when clearcoated the clearcoat pushes itself away from the crack, making it very noticeable and leaving what you have.

If there is in fact mud below those areas, there could have been stress cracks in it not easily seen, and this is the result. I'm sorry but I don't see the cracks being application error, or from mixing the paint wrong.

Paint nibs (dirt/dust/hair/etc) happen in every paint job, even factory paint jobs. It is up to the shop to nib and buff to what they or the customer deem acceptable. This is something most insurance companies don't pay for, but shops do it for customer satisfaction.

 

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I've been in the collision industry for 10+ years now so take my opinion for what its worth. I don't work for Bob Poynter nor have I ever heard of him. With the shops in Virginia I worked for having average car counts of 300/month, I've seen a lot of work come and go.

I have personally seen cracks like that happen in areas that didn't look cracked before, but they were. You see it a lot on urethane bumpers, if there is even the tiniest stress crack in the old paint that was not noticeable before, when clearcoated the clearcoat pushes itself away from the crack, making it very noticeable and leaving what you have.

If there is in fact mud below those areas, there could have been stress cracks in it not easily seen, and this is the result. I'm sorry but I don't see the cracks being application error, or from mixing the paint wrong.

Paint nibs (dirt/dust/hair/etc) happen in every paint job, even factory paint jobs. It is up to the shop to nib and buff to what they or the customer deem acceptable. This is something most insurance companies don't pay for, but shops do it for customer satisfaction.

What your saying makes great sense and if this wasn't an area I've seen and over and over I would agree with you. I don't think there wasn't bondo in those areas. I would be willing to bet if I was to chip the paint to see what's underneath those areas you would see the original paint.
Plus all that aside there's the issue of dents they were paid to fix that are still there even though I pointed them out twice. That alone is enough to justify further action.

My brother worked for T and T body shop for 8 years and I have a good friend who does body work and went to school for it and they both agree old Bob is trying to cut his losses on this one. Stuff like this happens more often than most people realize, BP is hoping/betting I'm one of the majority of people who will just accept it and move on.

I know body work is hard work and some times people are just plain hard to please, but trust me this isn't the case. I over looked a lot of things and didn't have a problem with it. But to give me something this bad and then say it's not their fault. Well that's something I'm not going to let go.

 

[VaGriller]

Do you know anybody with an mil thickness gauge? That will tell you for sure if there is a large deviation in thickness of the material between the surface and metal. Most factory thickness is 4-8 mils, double that now that its been painted, but if the area by the cracks won't register, or register super high there is going to be some sorta material under there.

For the record, I've seen scratches do the same thing, the clear will push away from the center of the scratch.

Theres no excuse for the missed dents, scratched tint etc. however it does happen sometimes to the best of them, and the worst of them.

Was this claim handled through your insurance companies DRP program, or did you pick the shop? If you handled it through their drp program, you will have more pull with the insurance company.

 

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Do you know anybody with an mil thickness gauge? That will tell you for sure if there is a large deviation in thickness of the material between the surface and metal. Most factory thickness is 4-8 mils, double that now that its been painted, but if the area by the cracks won't register, or register super high there is going to be some sorta material under there.

For the record, I've seen scratches do the same thing, the clear will push away from the center of the scratch.

Theres no excuse for the missed dents, scratched tint etc. however it does happen sometimes to the best of them, and the worst of them.

Was this claim handled through your insurance companies DRP program, or did you pick the shop? If you handled it through their drp program, you will have more pull with the insurance company.

I will have the paint measured, going to be part of what I present to BP.

I picked the shop, but the shop is a shop that the insurance company will let do the work without them sending and adjuster out.

I know companies mess up from time to time everyone does, but how you handle it after that says a lot about your company's morals.

BP is not the first company who I've had problems with. General motors, ATT and Hughes net all have thought I would be a push over and just accept the hand they dealt me. All of which know better know. I've won my case with those 3 companies and BP isn't going to get away with this either. As I get older I don't put up with companies not giving what I paid for.

 

[VaGriller]

I know you said you spoke to your agent, what did your agent say? Have you asked your company to send an adjuster out to reinspect it? Most insurance companies will if there is a complaint with a drp program shop.

 

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I know you said you spoke to your agent, what did your agent say? Have you asked your company to send an adjuster out to reinspect it? Most insurance companies will if there is a complaint with a drp program shop.

They're coming out Wednesday to look at it. I'm holding out on any other action until then.
I'm just kind of half way starting my publicity campaign part of my fight right now. When companies mess up they like to keep it quiet. So I plan to get the word out to as many people as I can.