Dillon Super Swage

[william]

My process for prepping .223 casings:

1) Lube all brass with One Shot and put in brass hopper
2) Use my XL650 to resize and decap all the brass, only one die in the toolhead
3) Tumble all brass to remove lube
4) Run through my RCBS Pocket Swage system on my Rockchucker
5) Continue the steps of reloading to complete round

If I can save one step - especially the pocket swaging step - I'm all for it. After it arrives, I'll review it and post the file on INGO.

I had another question about your process...when you are done with all that do you run the rounds through the press without the sizing decapping dine in station 1? I am getting ready to try the same thing and was thinking of leaving the die in just in case there is any media left in the flash hole. Not sure what it will do without any lube on the casings. Thanks

 

[billt]

I had another question about your process...when you are done with all that do you run the rounds through the press without the sizing decapping dine in station 1? I am getting ready to try the same thing and was thinking of leaving the die in just in case there is any media left in the flash hole. Not sure what it will do without any lube on the casings. Thanks

What you are suggesting is a good idea. I would not use a resizing die with the decapper in place however. You would be better off if you purchased a decapping only die. They are very inexpensive from Lee, and other reloading tool manufacturers. That way you will be sure to push a decapping pin through the flash hole on every single round assuring nothing is stuck in it, and in the process not touch the walls of the case. Bill T.

 

[Aszerigan]

You would be better off if you purchased a decapping only die. They are very inexpensive from Lee, and other reloading tool manufacturers.

Yes, I use a Lee decapping die in station 1 after I polish the brass, just to clear out the flash hole.

 

[Aszerigan]

At what point do you trim, chamfer and deburr?

The Super Swage will not save you a step. It will merely replace #4 unless you are swaging every time, which isn't necessary.

I trim after I decap and resize, before the second polish. And you're right - you don't need to swage everytime, unless you're buying mil brass and reloading it for sale. I rarely see the same piece of brass twice.

 

[1$Chuck]

Not to tread jack this, but is there an advantage to swageing vs. reaming the primer pockets? Is it faster / leave better results? I've never dealt with crimped primers.

 

[billt]

Not to tread jack this, but is there an advantage to swageing vs. reaming the primer pockets? Is it faster / leave better results? I've never dealt with crimped primers.

Swageing does not remove any material from the case. It "pushes it" back into place around a hardened mandrel. All It basically does is take the material that the crimp tool pushed into the primer pocket, and rolls it into a nice, smooth radius around the edge of the primer pocket. Of the 2 swageing is the better option to cutting because it usually results in more uniform primer pockets that have just the right seating pressure.

I have both the Dillon Super Swage 600, as well as the RCBS Case Prep Center. I've found over thousands of cases the Dillon swages much more uniform pockets than the RCBS tool can cut. It is also easier and over 3 times faster. Bill T.

 

[Aszerigan]

They're like a Microwave oven or a TV with remote. Once you have it, you'll wonder how the hell you ever lived without it!

Bill, you are soooooooo right. The super swage is awesome, second only to having a 1050 do it for you. Great tool, highly recommended.

 

[billt]

One thing that cutting does that swageing does not, is it squares the bottom of the primer pocket, and in the process removes the small radius at the bottom of the pocket itself. This assures that the primer will seat solidly against the bottom of the primer pocket itself, and not be held up by the radius at the bottom.

This all but guarantees perfectly seated primers that will not "stand proud" above the case. It also helps with reliable ignition because of the fact the primer will take a solid hit from the firing pin and absorb all it's energy. If the top of the primer is hitting this small radius it can "rob" some of this energy and possibly cause a misfire. Primers that stand proud can also cause a dangerous slam fire in semi auto weapons like the Springfield Armory M1-A.

You can still swage the primer pockets with the Dillon or RCBS tool, then use a simple hand tool to remove this radius in a simple hand operation. Many don't bother with this, and it isn't always necessary. I do it in all of my match loads in .308 and .300 Win. Mag., but not for the bulk of my AR-15 ammunition. It would simply take too long. Bill T.

 

[JByer323]

As I've started fiddling with match grade .223, my process is this:

• Decap on a single stage press
• Tumble brass
• Swage if needed
• Flash hole uniformer/debur flash hole
• Trim brass/chamfer
• Reload on a 550

The Dillon Super Swage is awesome, I was lucky enough to pick one up off of Gunbroker for cheap.