Batteries

[random_eyes]

My bedside gun safe has an electronic lock and depends on batteries to get it open (though it does have a backup key).

I keep the key to my larger gun safe in the bedside safe.

My flashlight depends on batteries. The laser sight on my revolver requires batteries. The cell phone to call 911 uses a rechargeable battery.

Curious if others have given much thought to powering these electronic devices and/or training for failure of battery or replacing batteries in a crisis situation. Storing spares, rotating batteries out to prevent problems?

I have read that musical performers always put brand new batteries in their microphones prior to a performance.

 

[CountryBoy19]

My bedside gun safe has an electronic lock and depends on batteries to get it open (though it does have a backup key).

I keep the key to my larger gun safe in the bedside safe.

My flashlight depends on batteries. The laser sight on my revolver requires batteries. The cell phone to call 911 uses a rechargeable battery.

Curious if others have given much thought to powering these electronic devices and/or training for failure of battery or replacing batteries in a crisis situation. Storing spares, rotating batteries out to prevent problems?

I have read that musical performers always put brand new batteries in their microphones prior to a performance.

It doesn't take very much of a solar setup to recharge batteries. Get one!

 

[random_eyes]

hmmmmm, "reloading" the batteries. Interesting idea. My bedroom is on the upper floor, so I could probably wire up a rooftop mounted solar panel. Maybe someday.

 

[evansvillethompsongunner]

That's why I love firearms. Purely manual enterprises, for the most part.

 

[dooleydclown]

You could always do the smoke detector thing and change batteries on your birthday every year.

 

[bigg cheese]

I've never had any luck with rechargeable batteries except Ni-Cad and Li-Ion... regular batteries (in the AA AAA, C, D, etc) suck monkey balls when it comes to keeping a charge.

 

[rbrthenderson]

If you can track down Ni-MH rechargeable batteries, they would be the best because they don't have a charging memory. I'm a musician and I have 24 Ni-MH Enegizer AA's that I rotate between all my wireless devices.

 

[dudley0]

I have a green laser on a shotty by the bed. I check it often... maybe too much. Just noticed that it is dead again and the thing takes these super-dooper high powered batteries. I order some, since none are around these parts, and they never have enough umpf to do the job.

Decided to go back to the red laser that uses standard batteries. Not gonna be that bright inside the house anyhow.

Did get me to start thinking though. This device isn't needed, just a bonus, but I do have batteries besides the smoke detectors that I need to have working.

Maybe I should look into this solar powered idea.

 

[revance]

If you want rechargeable Ni-MH make sure to get the "pre-charged". Calling them that is silly because that is not why you want them. You want them because they have a low internal resistance which means they can hold a charge for over a year (as opposed to a couple weeks). That is how they can sell them pre-charged. Normal ones would be dead before they get to your home. Sanyo makes some they call Eneloops and Duracell just started making some.

For critical applications, I always use lithium primary batteries (not lithium ion). They are much more dependable and last longer. A lithium cell is 1.5v, so you can buy lithium equivalents to alkalines. I also replace them annually.

I do use lithium ion for my flashlights so I can always keep them topped off.

 

[mrmarky]

A gun under the mattress is worth 2 in the safe any day

 

[VERT]

Just changed the batteries in my gun safe. The batteries are not the problem as much as the darn little wires and crummy connectors. My safe seems to have developed a short. Anything electrical or mechanical can and will fail at some time.

 

[revance]

A gun under the mattress is worth 2 in the safe any day

I disagree... my fast action safe mounted to the floor next to my bed can be opened in 3 seconds. When it does fly open, the gun is right there unobstructed. I'm pretty sure I can get my pistol out of that safe faster than you can fumble around trying to find where between the mattresses your gun is.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEe-BD0fJFg]YouTube - VID00047[/ame]

 

[CountryBoy19]

I've never had any luck with rechargeable batteries except Ni-Cad and Li-Ion... regular batteries (in the AA AAA, C, D, etc) suck monkey balls when it comes to keeping a charge.

L-ion, and Sanyo Eneloop hybrid batteries are the ONLY batteries I would use.

Most other batteries (including pure Ni-Cad) will slowly discharge on their own. Eneloop batteries only self-discharge 10% per year. I've been using the same Eneloop batteries for about 4 years now and they're still going strong in my flashlights.

 

[AngryRooster]

Stay away from regular alkaline batteries. They may be cheaper to start with but if they leak whatever expensive device they were installed in will most likely be ruined. Use a lithium primary instead. They are lighter, more reliable, have greater run time, and much longer shelf life.

For rechargeable batteries use Sanyo Eneloops or if you can find them the Duracell pre-charged with the white tops. These are rebranded Eneloops. Get a good smart charger such as the Maha CH-9000. It is programmable and will keep the cells in top shape. Don't overcharge or over discharge your cells. If you use them until they are dead then you are damaging them.

Li-ion cells are best for high powered lights that can use them. Learn about them before you jump right in and start using them, they can be dangerous but give the best performance. Do not use them in anything that isn't designed for them.

Visit Welcome to Battery University for more information than you can digest in a day. Search for 'Li-ion vent with flame' for the dangers of Li-ion cells if they aren't handled properly.

I think it would be a good idea to have a flashlight/battery section in this forum. High powered lights go hand in hand with firearms and self defense. It would be nice to have gun friendly source of info on this subject. I'm a member of a different forum that deals with lights, but they can be a little hostile at times when you try to discuss them in a self defense or firearms related context.

 

[dudley0]

I think it would be a good idea to have a flashlight/battery section in this forum.

Of late I couldn't agree more... would be great to find the types and brands that work the best rather than hoping for a good set on ebay.

 

[AngryRooster]

What type of light are you looking for? What are you wanting it to do?

 

[dudley0]

I need to get a light that I can count on sitting next to my nightstand for sweeping the house.

I want the batteries to never drain and the light to be bright enough to burn the retinas out of the BG.

I have a problem with testing batteries too much, thus the reason for my laser to not function all the time.

 

[AngryRooster]

For a good entry level, upgradeable light I would suggest a Solarforce L2 or L2P with a MC-E or XP-G R5 P60 Drop-in and 18650 IMR battery.

The Solarforce is a Surefire clone and is very well built. All important pasts will interchange with the Surefire as well. You can get plain bezels or strike bezels for the front if you like. You can get extension tubes to make it a little longer for better handling and better runtime.

The MC-E drop-in will flood a room with light and get around an hour of runtime on high. The Solarforce brand drop-in has high/medium/strobe. There are other brands that have different modes as well. The XP-G R5 drop-in will not be quite as bright as the MC-E but will give more runtime. Don't get me wrong, the XP-G is VERY bright with a large hotspot. It also will throw farther outside than the MC-E. For in the house and a small yard (think in town less than 50 yards) then the MC-E is what I would go with. If you need to throw farther then the XP-G would be the way to go. There are various voltage ranges in all drop-ins so you can use whatever combination of cells you like.

The 18650 battery is a Li-ion cell that puts out 3.7-4.2 volts depending on the state of charge. These are the best choice for a torch of this type. If you get the proper drop-in you can use CR123 3v primary batteries as in a pinch. The AW IMR cells use a safer chemistry but are capable of putting out 4-5 amps. The regular cells usually do about 1.5-2 amps max. The regular cells should be fine for the XP-G drop-in but use the IMR cells with the MC-E.

This is a basic setup that isn't very expensive compared to other premium lights.

Solarforce host (body) can be found for less than $20.00
The MC-E P60 drop-in can be found for $30.00 to start
The XP-G drop-in can be found for $20.00 to start.
The AW IMR 18650 cells can be found for around $10.00 each and can be charge around 500 times if they are taken care of.
A WF-139 charger for Li-ion cells starts around $13.00.

Once this package is bought then it can be upgraded with other P60 drop-ins as the technology advances.

There are MANY other choices that you can go with. The Quark line from 4sevens is excellent along as the Fenix line, but they aren't upgradeable either.

There is no ONE perfect light that will do everything. I have a Quark MiNi123 on my keys, a Quark AA regular in my pocket, a Surefire in my Fobus spare mag holster, a Solarforce L2P with a XP-G R5 Thrunight 1.5 amp drop-in beside the door for outside use (we own a farm and have a 125 meter by 75 meter yard), another Solarforce L2 with the MC-E in the bedroom, and a Solarforce L2M (one cell light, very small) mounted on our AR-15's. There are several others scattered around the house for when the power goes out.

You can do a search if you like for prices but most of the time I shop from Lighthound and SBFlashlights. There are a few others but I have always gotten good service from both of them.