AR 15 cleaning question, why not to lube trigger group
I read this article at GunsandAmmo.com about cleaning the AR and came across the following passage, but it doesn't explain why to avoid lubing the trigger area. I see many on INGO use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean heavy deposits, how do you avoid getting cleaner on your plastic grip/stock as it partially dissolves plastic vs Hoppes which doesn't seem to attack polymer parts.
I like to keep my trigger well lubed as it runs smoother. The Colt trigger seems to take too much effort otherwise. In a dirty/sandy/dusty environment I could see why you'd want to keep the internals as dry as possible to avoid attracting grit.
I read this article at GunsandAmmo.com about cleaning the AR and came across the following passage, but it doesn't explain why to avoid lubing the trigger area. I see many on INGO use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean heavy deposits, how do you avoid getting cleaner on your plastic grip/stock as it partially dissolves plastic vs Hoppes which doesn't seem to attack polymer parts.
7. Inspection and Lubrication
With the rifle clean, now is an ideal opportunity to inspect the rifle and its components for worn, cracked or broken parts. Some parts on the AR wear faster than others, and it’s important to keep track of wear so that parts can be replaced before they break. Pay particular attention to the bolt. Look for hairline cracks where the cam pin enters the body of the bolt, as that is usually where breakage occurs. The locking lugs should also be inspected for cracks or other imperfections. While you are inspecting the bolt, ensure the three gas rings are not aligned—their slots should all be in different locations to ensure a tight gas seal. Take a look at the bolt carrier and ensure the gas key fits tightly and that the screws are staked into place so they cannot rotate. Any parts that are suspect should be taken to an armorer or gunsmith, or should be replaced.
With the rifle clean and inspected, it needs to be lubed before reassembly. Semi-auto rifles require more lubrication than most other firearms, so don’t skimp on the lube. I use lithium grease because it doesn’t migrate when hot, but any gun oil will work. Your rifle will tell you where to apply lube since those areas will have their finish worn from friction. The outside of the bolt body, bolt locking lugs and the four longitudinal ridges on the bolt carrier are key lubrication points on the AR. Conversely, I avoid using lube in the firing pin channel or on the trigger parts.
With the rifle clean, now is an ideal opportunity to inspect the rifle and its components for worn, cracked or broken parts. Some parts on the AR wear faster than others, and it’s important to keep track of wear so that parts can be replaced before they break. Pay particular attention to the bolt. Look for hairline cracks where the cam pin enters the body of the bolt, as that is usually where breakage occurs. The locking lugs should also be inspected for cracks or other imperfections. While you are inspecting the bolt, ensure the three gas rings are not aligned—their slots should all be in different locations to ensure a tight gas seal. Take a look at the bolt carrier and ensure the gas key fits tightly and that the screws are staked into place so they cannot rotate. Any parts that are suspect should be taken to an armorer or gunsmith, or should be replaced.
With the rifle clean and inspected, it needs to be lubed before reassembly. Semi-auto rifles require more lubrication than most other firearms, so don’t skimp on the lube. I use lithium grease because it doesn’t migrate when hot, but any gun oil will work. Your rifle will tell you where to apply lube since those areas will have their finish worn from friction. The outside of the bolt body, bolt locking lugs and the four longitudinal ridges on the bolt carrier are key lubrication points on the AR. Conversely, I avoid using lube in the firing pin channel or on the trigger parts.
I like to keep my trigger well lubed as it runs smoother. The Colt trigger seems to take too much effort otherwise. In a dirty/sandy/dusty environment I could see why you'd want to keep the internals as dry as possible to avoid attracting grit.
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