AR-15 Builders - What and Why

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  • Ggreen

    Person
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    49   0   0
    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
    77
    SouthEast
    I'm fairly new to the ar game. I'm always interested to learn what everyone else likes about the function of pieces and parts. Being the Honda civic of rifles there seem to be and endless combination of dress up options available. I understand that everyone sees a different purpose for their rifles and everyone who has one has some amount of experience involved with the pieces and parts they choose to run with. I'm just interested in what you found that works and what you may have grown to regret for various reasons.

    I'll start with my philosophy for my current rifles. Cost Cost Cost, Function,

    I started with my 300blk for deer hunting. I bought an Anderson lower, a yhm upper, an affordable bcg, budget barrel (that had to be rifle length gas to try and eliminate the feed and wear issues associated with 300 blk and super sonic rounds). I spent the time to learn to polish my own trigger and feed ramps and came out with a reliable, accurate and relatively cheap rifle. I went with a magpul stock to cut down on the rattle I seem to get out of tapco's and a no brand free float tubular hand guard. All summer and fall I loved everything about this rifle... Until opening morning

    The con's were immediately apparent to having an aluminum receiver and hand guard, it was frosted over in no time. I imagine it will be the same but opposite result in the summer when the sun heats up the black aluminum to surface of the sun temps. I also realized that the milspec charging handle was a nightmare with a scope and gloved hands. I'm also thinking it came out a bit heavy, but for a hunting rig that rides a sling to the blind, it isn't terrible. I am still happy with the rifle but made changes with my 5.56.

    When I went at my 5.56 (that I hope to use in some form of competitive shooting) I decided to shift my focus from heavy target style rifle to a semi lightweight mobile rig that doesn't sacrifice to much accuracy in the name of weight. I started with an fmk polymer lower, tapco m4 stock, m4 profile barrel, phase 5 upper and bcg. Competition minded I did install a Patriot ordnance ambi charging handle, I decided to use another tubular free float handguard in carbine length to allow for a pictinny gas block in case I needed to go with iron sights. This rifle is amazingly fast, light, accurate and fun. I really like taking it to the range and plinking with it.

    My main lessons have been that a good ambi charging handle is much more practical than tacticool as I thought going in on my first build. I like a single stage trigger in my run-n-gun rifle while I really like the smooth 2 stage in my hunting rifle.

    I'm not sure what I intend to do for my next ar, I just hope to get some ideas and maybe save some cash by learning from the lessons you've paid for.

    So let it out, what do you like, what do you hate, what do you wish you had done different with your ar. Understand everyone has a different gameplan for their rifle and please keep comments courteous and productive.
     

    POB

    Plinker
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Nov 19, 2016
    113
    18
    Jeffersonville
    A lot can be learned from reading a thread on Arfcom from Henderson Defense. They tell what works and what doesn't in their classes. I always thought I wanted a free float rail for my shtf / go-to rifle but they tell how so many have failed during their classes and that they can't take the abuse a drop in rail can take. That's just one example.
     

    NyleRN

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    29   0   0
    Dec 14, 2013
    4,057
    113
    Scottsburg
    A lot can be learned from reading a thread on Arfcom from Henderson Defense. They tell what works and what doesn't in their classes. I always thought I wanted a free float rail for my shtf / go-to rifle but they tell how so many have failed during their classes and that they can't take the abuse a drop in rail can take. That's just one example.

    Which of these free float rails has a high rate of failure? I'm guessing it's the ones that cost $100 or less and that explains a lot
     

    POB

    Plinker
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Nov 19, 2016
    113
    18
    Jeffersonville
    I'm sure that has alot to do with it but if I were to drop my AR with a direct hit to the rail I'd be wishing it was a drop-in rather a free float of the best brand.
     

    Ggreen

    Person
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    49   0   0
    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
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    SouthEast
    A lot of threads are second hand information. I'm interested in first person information a lot is lost in the old telephone game. I'm also interested to see what other people have built their ar platform rifles for. It's a multi role rifle and I may need excuses to build more lol.

    Knowing which rails fail would be nice. I've had an obsession with dlsports ar's since reading the guns and ammo that had them on the cover. I'm pretty sure he wouldn't sell a handguard that fails on a drop and his handguards are tubular free floating with modular rail attachments.
     

    Ggreen

    Person
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    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
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    SouthEast

    Ggreen

    Person
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    49   0   0
    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
    77
    SouthEast
    I found the quad rail post and it makes total sense in the context

    "Another aspect of the AR/M4 platform that we have managed to break are some quad rails. We've used some very cheap Korean-made quad rails that continue to work and we've had very expensive free-float quad rails from two premier mfg's fail. The construction of the Korean units are heavy, screwed together with six machine screws and they work. The other brands are very lightweight, expensive and still my personal favorites but the welds and areas around the barrel nut have cracked.

    Our customers hold on for dear life most of the time so there is a force pushing forward and down (vertical foregrip) and the stock is locked against their pectoral muscle/chest plate along with their upper arm exerting a downward force almost in a "bending" fashion. Nobody was too surprised about the free float rails cracking because of the way customers hold on so tight.

    ETA: The old-school GI-issue KAC rails continue to do the job.


    V/R
    Ron"

    -HendersonDefense via Arfcom



    I would like to see how the tubular offerings stand up. No grips and beefier barrel nut's seem like they would solve some of the issues.
     

    King31

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Nov 10, 2013
    827
    28
    Southern Indiana
    Unfortunately I do not have a fully assembled AR at this point, but I'll share anyhow.

    My experience was non existent, but after a few weeks of reading and talking to a coworker I dove head first into the AR game. I had always wanted a 6.5mm of some sort and when I found out that I could build a 6.5 Grendel on the AR platform I was sold. I wanted to possibly get into long range shooting while also having a rifle that I could knock down a coyote or deer, without any problems. Going into the build I thought I would be able to save some money by purchasing each part and installing on my own, but unfortunately I'm not sure that is the case after checking out my spreadsheet.

    I went to the LGS, fondled some ARs, and quickly found that I hated wide quad rail handguards. A slim free float handguard was for sure what I wanted. After that I based a lot of my purchases on price, reliability, and positive reviews. Deciding on each part was tough as there are so many options. To save money I would not buy billet receivers ever again. My boss sold me the lower and then I had the mindset that I had to get a matching upper. Right there was a couple hundred bucks I could have saved, but being my first build I was going all out. After not knowing anything a few weeks before, I assembled my lower in my bedroom one evening after work. A very easy $1 trick using a clevis pin to install the front takedown spring, detent, and pin, is something everyone should do. I will be assembling the upper on Saturday and hopefully be test firing later in the day if all goes as planned.

    My second rifle will be in 5.56 and I will be trying to build the cheapest rifle I possibly can while also keeping weight into consideration. My completed lower is right at $150 with magpul parts so hopefully I can add a quality upper and be under $500.

    Sorry I was a little off topic, but it has been a very fun process and I hope to continue learning more and more. With my cheap parts kit triggers, learning to do some polishing will be at the top of the list.
     

    Ggreen

    Person
    Rating - 100%
    49   0   0
    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
    77
    SouthEast
    Unfortunately I do not have a fully assembled AR at this point, but I'll share anyhow.

    My experience was non existent, but after a few weeks of reading and talking to a coworker I dove head first into the AR game. I had always wanted a 6.5mm of some sort and when I found out that I could build a 6.5 Grendel on the AR platform I was sold. I wanted to possibly get into long range shooting while also having a rifle that I could knock down a coyote or deer, without any problems. Going into the build I thought I would be able to save some money by purchasing each part and installing on my own, but unfortunately I'm not sure that is the case after checking out my spreadsheet.

    I went to the LGS, fondled some ARs, and quickly found that I hated wide quad rail handguards. A slim free float handguard was for sure what I wanted. After that I based a lot of my purchases on price, reliability, and positive reviews. Deciding on each part was tough as there are so many options. To save money I would not buy billet receivers ever again. My boss sold me the lower and then I had the mindset that I had to get a matching upper. Right there was a couple hundred bucks I could have saved, but being my first build I was going all out. After not knowing anything a few weeks before, I assembled my lower in my bedroom one evening after work. A very easy $1 trick using a clevis pin to install the front takedown spring, detent, and pin, is something everyone should do. I will be assembling the upper on Saturday and hopefully be test firing later in the day if all goes as planned.

    My second rifle will be in 5.56 and I will be trying to build the cheapest rifle I possibly can while also keeping weight into consideration. My completed lower is right at $150 with magpul parts so hopefully I can add a quality upper and be under $500.

    Sorry I was a little off topic, but it has been a very fun process and I hope to continue learning more and more. With my cheap parts kit triggers, learning to do some polishing will be at the top of the list.

    I have an upper that I bought with intention of building a Grendel.
     

    Ggreen

    Person
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    49   0   0
    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
    77
    SouthEast
    So cost is 3x more important than function? As long as it's cheap, it doesn't have to work?

    No efficient spending without wasting on things I didn't need. Example is that I did not see the need to have rails all over my rifles, I wanted the benefits of a free floating handguard, so I did a lot of searching and ended up spending less than half the cost of a good free floating rail handguard and got my tubular handguards. I did not want to waste money on a bcg that would fail so I researched and spent the time to make an informed decision on a bcg that would fit my needs rather than go all out with a lantac or waste it away on something prone to premature failure. Being focused on cost means weighing the probability of spending money twice vs spending a little more upfront without going overboard.
     

    Psode27

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 23, 2011
    1,234
    38
    Rochester
    Just my take, YMMV... in my nicest AR's, I put the most money in barrel, bolt, trigger, gas block.
    Barrel- well, these are important. I won't elaborate much here. don't need to spend a fortune.
    Bolt- I don't want it to break, I want it all in spec, not outrageously expensive.
    Trigger- While can be a spendy item, and some DIY stuff is okay, I really like a nice trigger. Spoil yourself and its tough to be content with crappy triggers.
    Gas block- When shooting suppressed I like to be able to adjust gas. needed? probably not, but I feel it worth while.

    As far as hand guards, I only own free float stuff. I particularly like ALG, and other slim modular options. I really like the Aero Precision M4E1 uppers with their hand guards as well.

    When wasting money comes to mind its on whiz-bang finishes, Titanium firing pin/take down pins, billet anything (sorry... sexy but not needed), super fancy stocks, putting questionable things you don't need on your rifle, and most of all buying cheap quality anything.
     

    cop car

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Jan 7, 2009
    626
    18
    Southside
    There are 2 types of AR15s:

    1. ones that you will stake your life on it always working and
    2. Fun AR15s.

    For the first category, milspec. Everything. Only thing non military grade/issue on my rifle would be the magpul furniture (which is fine) and the 1:9 twist barrel. (Because 1:9 is far superior to 1:7 with a 55-62 grain projectile). 14.5 1:9 cl rock river medium profile barrel, pinned/welded warcomp, carbine di gas system, kac M4 rail, milspec bolt/carrier. It works. Don't reinvent something when your life would depend on it.

    For the second category try out random free float rails, different profile and length barrels and gas systems. Different coatings, fancy triggers and so on. Just don't stake your life on those. Because when you are running around, banging into walls and falling down on concrete, they will **** up.
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    I like 2 stage triggers. different guns will get different ones depending on intended use or budget but I'm happy so long as there's some pre-travel before the break.

    I like long FF handguards. even my SBR has about as along a handguard as I could put on it. I want to reach out pretty far on the end for my off hand stance, and I want to be able to toss it against something for stability and not be missing because what I'm using for stability is touching the barrel.

    I like skinny/simple and round handguards. I've pretty much settled on either JP if I don't want anything on it or BCM KMR if I want a top rail for a light or back-up irons and it's more of a defensive gun.

    game guns or guns with silencers get adjustable gas. everything else is wide open.

    collapsible stocks are not important to me. I usually use them set to the length of a rifle stock anyway. I might shorten up one notch at the most on the home defense gun.

    One point slings don't control the gun enough, 3 point slings are too complicated, 2 point slings are just right (I use vtac).

    I went through a lot of grips before I finally settled on the magpul MOE+. The "+" has the rubber coating that really helps control the gun, especially one handed. Only the AR I use for high-power has something different (std A2).

    I like a slightly over-sized CH. using BCM Mod4 on about everything. nothing too big, nothing ambi.

    45-degree safeties are awesome. not so much for going to Fire, but for ease of going on Safe w/o shifting grip. Can't use an ambi safety, gets in the way.

    good USGI or pmag mags only.

    silencers make everything even more awesome.

    billet stuff and fancy finishes, well, never saw a need to spend extra $ on stuff that doesn't help the bullet go where I want or help to manipulate the gun faster...

    -rvb
     
    Last edited:

    Ggreen

    Person
    Rating - 100%
    49   0   0
    Sep 19, 2016
    3,686
    77
    SouthEast
    I like 2 stage triggers. different guns will get different ones depending on intended use or budget but I'm happy so long as there's some pre-travel before the break.

    I like long FF handguards. even my SBR has about as along a handguard as I could put on it. I want to reach out pretty far on the end for my off hand stance, and I want to be able to toss it against something for stability and not be missing because what I'm using for stability is touching the barrel.

    I like skinny/simple and round handguards. I've pretty much settled on either JP if I don't want anything on it or BCM KMR if I want a top rail for a light or back-up irons and it's more of a defensive gun.

    game guns or guns with silencers get adjustable gas. everything else is wide open.

    collapsible stocks are not important to me. I usually use them set to the length of a rifle stock anyway. I might shorten up one notch at the most on the home defense gun.

    One point slings don't control the gun enough, 3 point slings are too complicated, 2 point slings are just right (I use vtac).

    I went through a lot of grips before I finally settled on the magpul MOE+. The "+" has the rubber coating that really helps control the gun, especially one handed. Only the AR I use for high-power has something different (std A2).

    I like a slightly over-sized CH. using BCM Mod4 on about everything. nothing too big, nothing ambi.

    45-degree safeties are awesome. not so much for going to Fire, but for ease of going on Safe w/o shifting grip. Can't use an ambi safety, gets in the way.

    good USGI or pmag mags only.

    silencers make everything even more awesome.

    billet stuff and fancy finishes, well, never saw a need to spend extra $ on stuff that doesn't help the bullet go where I want or help to manipulate the gun faster...

    -rvb

    Thanks for all your personal insight.
     
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